Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central AsiaVámbéry, Ármin
History
Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central Asia
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel
This sacred or profane desire to travel braves all danger; this
vague thought of tearing himself away from his family, and friends,
and countrymen, to see the wide world, surrounds the Hadji with a
certain poetry. I have lived weeks with my companions, and yet it
always interested me to behold them, palm staff in hand, as a sacred
memento of Arabia, vigorously making their way through the deep sand
or mud. They were returning happily to their homes; but how many
did I meet who only commenced their long and tedious journey? and
yet they were equally happy. On my road from Samarkand to Teheran
I had as a companion a native of Chinese Tartary, who, in total
ignorance of the route he had to take, asked me every evening, even
when we were yet at Meshed, whether we should see to-morrow, or at
the farthest after to-morrow, the minarets of Mekka. The poor fellow
had no idea how much he would have to endure before he reached
his destination. However, this should not surprise us when we
remember that during the time of the crusades so many honest Teutons
undertook a pilgrimage to the Holy Land, and after two or three
days' journey hoped to behold the walls of Jerusalem.[6]
[6] See Noesselt's "Geschichte für Tochter schulen," who also states
that many pilgrims, ignorant of the road, allowed themselves to be
led by a frightened goose which ran before them.
The routes to Arabia adopted by the pious Tartars are the following,
viz.:--1. Yarkend, Kilian, Tibet, Kashmir.[7] 2. Through Southern
Siberia, Kazan and Constantinople. 3. Through Afghanistan and
India to Djedda. 4. Through Persia, Bagdad, and Damascus. None of
these routes is a comfortable one, and the amount of danger to be
incurred is very much dependent upon the season of the year and
the political state of the countries through which they pass. The
travellers form themselves in larger or smaller companies, and
elect a chief (_Tchaush_) from amongst themselves, who also fills
amongst them the office of _Imam_, (the person who first says the
prayers to be repeated by the rest,) and who enjoys a considerable
superiority over his companions. A visit to the Kaaba and the tomb
of the Prophet (which may be paid at any season) is not so much the
culminating point of the whole pilgrimage as the ascent of Mount
Arafat. This can be made only once a year, viz., on the Kurban
festival, (10th Zil Hidje,) which is nothing more or less than
the sacrifice of Abraham and Isaac dramatized. All those who have
taken part in this festival and have joined in the cry, "Lebeïk
Allah!"--Command, Oh God," (in allusion to Abraham's implicit
obedience,) are regarded as genuine Hadjis. This cry of "Lebeïk!
Lebeïk!" uttered at the most solemn moment of the whole pilgrimage,
seems also to have the deepest impression upon the pilgrim himself.
My travelling companions, whenever they became excited or were in
a happy mood of mind, always alluded to it; and the stillness of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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