Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central Asia — John Shaqi
Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central AsiaVámbéry, Ármin
History
Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central Asia
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel
Finding that all endeavours to close my eyes remained unsuccessful,
I rose and sat upright in the midst of this mass of people, who were
lying about in the most utter confusion. The rain kept falling, and,
as I looked out into the dark and gloomy night, my thoughts returned
to the difference in my position only twenty-four hours before, and
the sumptuous farewell supper at the splendid Turkish embassy. The
whole scene appeared to me not unlike a dramatic representation
of "King and Beggar," in which I acted the chief part. The bitter
feeling of reality, however, made little impression. I myself was
the author of this sudden metamorphosis, and I had prepared my fate
for myself.
The hard task of self-control lasted but a few days. As far as all
outward peculiarities were concerned, I soon became familiar with
the habitual as well as physical attributes of dervishism, such as
dirt, &c. I gave my better garments, which I had brought with me
from Teheran, to a weak and sickly Hadji, an act of kindness which
gained all hearts. My new uniform consisted of a felt jacket, which
I wore next my skin without any shirt, and of a _djubbe_ (upper
garment),[10] composed of innumerable pieces of stuff, and fastened
with a cord round the loins. My feet were enveloped in rags, and
an immense turban covered my head, serving as a parasol by day and
pillow by night. I had also, in conformity with the rest of the
Hadjis, hung round me a voluminous Koran in a bag, which resembled a
cartridge pouch; and, viewing myself thus, "_en pleine parade_," I
had reason proudly to exclaim: "Yes, indeed, I am born a beggar!"
[10] It is called _Hirkai dervishan_ (the dervish cloak), which
even those dervishes that are most comfortably off are obliged
to wear over their otherwise good garments. It is the symbol of
poverty, and is often composed of countless small pieces of new
patchwork, cut round the edge in points of unequal length; and,
while it is sewn together on the outside with thick packing thread
and large stitches, the lining often consists of silk or some other
valuable material. It is the _ne plus ultra_ of hypocrisy; but long
before the Romans the wise men of the East have said, _Mundus vult
decipi--ergo decipiatur_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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