Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central AsiaVámbéry, Ármin
History
Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central Asia
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel
It may be objected, that as so many of my actions might cause remark
or offence when in company with others, I must at all events have
shaken off this restraint when alone. But alas! Even then I was the
slave of precaution; and is it not striking, or rather ridiculous,
that at night, when in the boundless desert and at a considerable
distance from the caravan, I did not venture to eat the unleavened
bread, mixed up with ashes and sand, or take a draught of stinking
water without accompanying it with the customary Mahometan formula
of blessing! I might have thought to myself, no one sees you,
all around are asleep; but no! the distant sand hills appeared
to me like so many spies, who were watching whether I was saying
the Bismillah, and whether I had broken the bread in the proper
ritualistic manner. Thus it happened when in Khiva, that, when
sleeping alone in a dark cell, bolted and barred, I started up from
my couch at the call to prayer, and began the troublesome labour of
the thirteen Rikaat. When at the sixth or eighth, I had a great mind
to leave off, thinking I was safely out of sight. But no! it struck
me, that perhaps the eyes of a spy might be watching me through the
crevice in the door, and conscientiously I performed my unpleasant
duty.
Only time, the universal panacæa, could remedy this evil. Although
my moral sufferings were considerably more painful than the physical
ones, time and habit came to my aid, and gained me here also the
victory, and after having lived happily through four months, my
mind had grown as hardened to any fear or terror as my body to dirt
and uncleanliness. The epoch of indifference succeeded, and with it
I began to feel the true charms of my adventure. I was attracted
above all by the unlimited freedom of our life as vagrants, the
total absence of trouble as to food and clothing, the gratuitous
manner in which the dervish had everything provided for him, and,
in addition, the mental superiority which he exercises over the
people at large. No wonder, then, that I lost no opportunity in
amply profiting by the advantages of my position. My companions
admitted that I possessed eminent talents for the life of a dervish,
and whenever the question rose how to get money from hard-hearted
villagers, or to beg and collect a larger store of victuals, I
was always entrusted with that part of the business. I one day
brilliantly justified the confidence thus placed in me, in an
encampment of Tchandor Turkomans. These, the wildest of all nomad
people, had the reputation of being exceedingly wicked, and Hadjis,
Tshans and Dervishes habitually avoided going near their tents.
Having been told of this I set out on my way, accompanied by three
companions who were known as famous singers, and taking with me a
goodly store of holy dust, Zemzem water, tooth-picks, combs and the
like gifts, presented by pilgrims. Some received me rather coldly,
but yet the son of the desert, however wild he may be, cannot resist
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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