Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central AsiaVámbéry, Ármin
History
Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central Asia
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel
After leaving Görlen we went on for about four hours down stream,
and came to Yengï yap, an insignificant hamlet, surrounded by earth
walls, and about one hour and a half distant from the river. Two
hours later we reached the district of Khitayi, which begins where
the Yumalak, a conical hill, rises close to the left bank. On the
right the Oveis mountains approach nearer and nearer to the Oxus,
and soon we passed the prominent peak Yampuk, crowned with the ruins
of an old castle. Opposite Yumalak the mountain chain, Sheik Djeli,
which runs from east to west, forms a very narrow channel (here
called kisnak), much narrower than the Iron Gates on the Danube,
and often dangerous to navigation from the force and rapidity of
the current. The waters here roar, as if the Oxus, that unruly son
of the desert, were angry at being so imprisoned between the rocks.
The narrowest part is, however, very short; on the left bank the
mountains terminate abruptly, while on the right bank the high lands
gradually slope, and after having passed Tama, which lies on the
left, the country is everywhere flat. With the mountains disappeared
every romantic feature along the banks of the Oxus. After a voyage
of two days our eyes and imagination were fully satisfied, and
although the morning and evening hours had their charms, yet the
heat became intolerable in the day-time, and the mosquitoes and
flies at night--insects, in comparison with which the Golumbacz on
the Lower Danube are harmless and insignificant as butterflies. As
soon as the sun began to set, every one crept carefully under the
mosquito-net, made, of course, of linen, the air under which had
become so thoroughly poisoned by my fellow-travellers, that I felt
keenly not to be able to exchange it for the purer air outside.
Towards evening we reached the district of Mangit, which has a town
of the same name, about two hours' distance from the river, but not
visible from the boat on account of a small wood which intervenes.
Here we remained for some time moored along the bank, and having
comfortably cooked our dinner in the open air, instead of on the
narrow hearth in the boat, we continued our voyage. We reached
Basuyap, after another hour's journey, at night, much to the regret
of my friend, who had been anxious to pay a visit with me to a
very celebrated _Nogaï Ishan_, who resided there, in order to ask
his advice and blessing on the journey he had undertaken. These
_Nogaï_, who fled hither to escape the Russian authorities or the
conscription, are in Central Asia regarded as martyrs to freedom and
Islamism, and revered as such; but I have frequently met among them
the most consummate rascals, and thought that they had probably run
away from a fully merited chastisement.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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