Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central AsiaVámbéry, Ármin
History
Sketches of Central Asia (1868): Additional chapters on my travels, adventures, and on the ethnology of Central Asia
Vámbéry, Ármin
Asia, Central -- Description and travel
Early in the morning we passed Kiptchak, which is the second stage
on the journey, and lies on both sides of the Oxus. At this place
a rock rises from the water, which, extending across the river,
narrows the channel by more than half its width, and renders the
navigation so extremely dangerous, that it is never attempted,
except at broad daylight. At low water some of the points are
visible, and it is no uncommon thing to see children, a foot deep in
water, clambering upon them.
Kiptchak itself is a place of considerable importance, inhabited by
an Œzbeg tribe of the same name, and possesses several mosques
and colleges. Of the latter, the college situated on the right
bank of the river was founded by Khodja Niaz, and is deservedly
celebrated for its rich endowments. Not far from this building,
which stands separately, is seen the ruin Tchilpik, on a hill rising
close to the water. Tradition asserts that in ancient times it was a
strong castle, and the residence of a Princess, who, having fallen
in love with one of her father's slaves, and dreading the anger of
her offended parent, fled hither for refuge with her lover. In order
to obtain water, they were obliged to pierce the hill downwards to
the river, and the subterranean passage exists at the present day.
From Kiptshak up the stream begins the forest already mentioned,
which extends with few interruptions along the right bank of the
river to some distance beyond Kungrat. I could not see from the boat
how far its breadth stretched eastward, but I have been assured that
it is from eight to ten hours' journey. Its approach from the river
is intercepted by bogs and morasses, which render it only in a few
places accessible. In the less thickly-wooded parts graze numberless
herds of cattle, the property of the Karakalpaks, who find abundance
of game in the forest, but sometimes suffer greatly from the
numerous wild beasts, especially panthers, tigers, and lions, which
infest that district. From here to Görlen the stream has so many
shallows, that we were incessantly striking aground. The left bank
rises to an elevated plateau, which extends far in a north-westerly
direction, and is called Yilankir (the field of serpents) by the
natives. On the western frontier of the desert it forms a declivity
as steep as the Kaflankir, or the whole table-land of Ustyurt. The
population of this region consists of Jomut-Turkomans and Tchaudors;
the former lead a nomadic life near the river, and in the country
round Porsu and Yilali; the latter inhabit the skirts of the desert
and the several oases of the Ustyurt. Both tribes, as may well
be imagined, live in constant feud with each other,--a condition
as much to their disadvantage, as it is to the advantage of the
Œzbegs, the immediate neighbourhood of a strong and united nomad
people proving always most dangerous to the dwellers in settled
habitations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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