The view I had taken of the Imâm's court--the intercourse we had with
him, his sons, and chief officers--the security which I observed
merchants and other inhabitants, both Mahomedan and Hindu, enjoying
at Muscat, gave me a very pleasing impression of that place, and I
had made a sketch of the manners and customs of the people, no way
unfavourable. This I showed one day to a friend, who was a captain in
the navy, who, rather to my surprise, burst into a fit of laughter,
and said, he could show me a very opposite picture of the same scene.
"There is an order from the Admiralty," said he, "that the officers
of a man-of-war, when they visit a port little known, should describe
the manners and customs of the inhabitants. I have a blunt fellow of a
master, an excellent seaman, but who troubles himself very little with
matters on shore. Curious to have his observations, and knowing that
he had two or three times visited the town of Muscat, I insisted on
his complying with orders, and filling up the column of his journal.
He evaded this duty as long as he could: at last, in despair, he went
to his cabin, and returning with his book, said, 'There, sir, I have
obeyed orders, and you will find all I could write about these black
fellows, and all they deserve.' I took the journal and read,
'Inhabitants of Muscat.
'As to manners they have none; and their customs are very beastly.'"
This picture of the good master will no doubt be deemed by many truer
than mine; and travellers who limit their observations to the busy
beach, crowded with slaves, covered with packages of dates, blackened
with flies, and scented with putrid salt fish, will be certain to
prefer this laconic description of this rude and dirty people; or,
supposing them to enter the vile narrow streets of the town, and
see (as they may) strings of slaves walking, with a man following
and calling out their prices as he exhibits them in this ambulatory
auction:--"Number one--handsome young man, five hundred piastres;
number two--a little older, but very healthy and strong, four hundred
piastres;" and so on till he describes his whole string of unhappy
bipeds:--who would not turn with indignation and disgust from such
filth and abomination!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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