XX. HOTEL AT PASS CHRISTIAN IN 1849 140 XXI. OLD MUSIC BOOKS 146 XXII. THE SONGS OF LONG AGO 153 XXIII. A RAMBLE THROUGH THE OLD CITY 159 XXIV. “OLD CREOLE DAYS” AND WAYS 173 XXV. A VISIT TO VALCOUR AIME PLANTATION 182 XXVI. THE OLD PLANTATION LIFE 191 XXVII. PEOPLE I HAVE ENTERTAINED 200 XXVIII. A MONUMENT TO MAMMIES 209 XXIX. MARY ANN AND MARTHA ANN 216 XXX. WHEN LEXINGTON WON THE RACE 245 XXXI. LOUISIANA STATE FAIR FIFTY YEARS AGO 250 XXXII. THE LAST CHRISTMAS 256 XXXIII. A WEDDING IN WAR TIME 264 XXXIV. SUBSTITUTES 273 XXXV. AN UNRECORDED BIT OF NEW ORLEANS HISTORY 280 XXXVI. CUBAN DAYS IN WAR TIMES 287 XXXVII. “WE SHALL KNOW EACH OTHER THERE” 295 XXXVIII. A RAMBLE THROUGH NEW ORLEANS WITH BRUSH AND EASEL 303 XXXIX. A VISIT OF TENDER MEMORIES 320 BIOGRAPHICAL NOTE 331 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE The Author at Twenty-two _Frontispiece_ Richard Henry Chinn _Facing_ 10 Market Doorway 24 A New Orleans Yard and Cistern 33 Door in the French Market _Facing_ 38 Courtyard on Carondelet Street 45 The Old French Opera House 66 Typical Old New Orleans Dwelling 73 A Creole Parterre 81 St. Louis Cemetery, New Orleans 111 Augusta Slocomb Urquhart _Facing_ 118 Steamboat on the Mississippi 131 American Stagecoach 137 Seal of the City of New Orleans 160 Exchange Alley 163 Henry Clay _Facing_ 168 Arlington Plantation on the Mississippi _Facing_ 192 James Alexander McHatton _Facing_ 258 The Calaboose 281 A Courtyard in the French Quarter 305 “Behold a Wrecked Fountain” 308 “A Queer House Opposite” 311 St. Roch 316