Sometub's cruise on the C. & O. canal : $b The narrative of a motorboat vacation in the heart of MarylandCowan, John Pryor
History
Sometub's cruise on the C. & O. canal : $b The narrative of a motorboat vacation in the heart of Maryland
Cowan, John Pryor
Chesapeake and Ohio Canal (Md. and Washington, D.C.); Potomac River Valley -- Description and travel
Then into our lives came a heroic figure. Just at that moment he
appeared the greatest man in the world--philanthropist, navigator,
philosopher! He was the skipper of Canal Boat No. 18 which swept
majestically down the pool. His boat appeared as big and formidable as
the new superdreadnaught Pennsylvania. Dexterous work with the paddle
enabled us to get in its lee. Up there on his quarterdeck stood the
skipper. I since believe that he must have resembled Noah, but to we
two--we felt like castaways--he was indeed a mighty admiral. But he was
the admiral of a friendly power and amid all his dignity there was a
benign expression also of stern consideration for a brother mariner in
distress. We gazed at him and his noble craft in mute appeal.
"Ketch the line!"
Like spent swimmers grasping for a straw, we seized the line and made
it fast. For the second time "Sometub" was humiliated by being towed by
a prosaic freight boat.
[Illustration: Above--Upper Level at Four Locks
Below--Old-Time Mill]
Two miles an hour is top speed for a laden canal boat and No. 18's
tired mules kept well inside this limit. At the end of the towline
we nosed along in perfect complacency. We chatted with the skipper,
admired the scenery, examined our maps of the route, chaffed the
villagers, ate our luncheon, jogged the motor, read a little, took
short naps and made ourselves absolutely comfortable. Our only effort
was to keep on the shady side of the boat, for the weather was the
hottest we had endured. As a remedy for tired nerves I can testify to
the curative qualities of canalboating.
The skipper was a man of parts. He had run the canal for more than
20 years. He had walked every inch of the towpath from Cumberland to
Washington every hour of the day and night and he declared that he
could pace those 184 miles with his eyes blindfolded. He recognized
every hill and house and tree and could tell their history. He knew all
the neighborhood gossip, and all the neighbors knew him.
Toward the end of the drowsy afternoon we floated into the little
village of Four Locks which takes its name from the fact that a chain
of four locks are here. No. 18 cast us off and we prepared to paddle
through. To our surprise the motor condescended to run. At the time I
was ready to believe that it heard the mule driver's sublime cussing
and was frightened into obedience.
With the motor running again we soon passed No. 18 and snorted off
around a sharp bend, through Two Locks where we were lowered into the
waters of the Potomac. I say "snorted" advisedly. "Sometub" exhibited
colt-like behavior when unleashed from the slow-moving canal craft.
The towpath follows the northern bank of the river and the boats hug
the shore closely, but we careened far out into the stream. "Sometub"
had found a nautical playground more spacious than it had ever enjoyed
before.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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