Sometub's cruise on the C. & O. canal : $b The narrative of a motorboat vacation in the heart of MarylandCowan, John Pryor
History
Sometub's cruise on the C. & O. canal : $b The narrative of a motorboat vacation in the heart of Maryland
Cowan, John Pryor
Chesapeake and Ohio Canal (Md. and Washington, D.C.); Potomac River Valley -- Description and travel
The rain lasted through the night but Wednesday, July 26th, dawned with
clear skies. We prepared to depart early, but first stocked "Sometub"
with provisions and fuel, Brunswick being the last large town on the
canal on the way to Washington. Before us for a distance of nearly 50
miles lay a stretch of sparsely settled country. From Brunswick to
Point of Rocks the Baltimore and Ohio railroad runs close beside the
towpath and in the early morning, "Sometub" was greeted several times
by passengers on the observation cars of the Royal Blue express trains
which dashed by at a mile-a-minute speed. We wondered if the people who
were fluttering handkerchiefs and waving hats envied us. It was while
riding on the observation car several years ago on this same route
that we had planned our voyage. In its realization we regretted that
more vacation tourists could not share the pleasure of our trip over
the mountains--by water. We did not stop to consider that the majority
of summer travelers desire speed, luxury and the least discomfort and
would balk at the petty annoyances we endured through an obstinate
motor and the omniesence of Jupiter Pluvius.
Under the shadow of old Catoctin mountain we passed the Point of Rocks,
famous in the Civil War as the place where Lee's army crossed for the
invasion of Maryland in the Antietam campaign. A few miles beyond the
course of the river turns from southeast to southwest and we sheered
off sharply from the railroad. We crossed on the famous stone aqueduct
over the Monocacy river. The character of the scenery changed quite
as preceptibly as the direction of the stream. Through the drooping
branches of the trees we saw on the north the rugged outlines of old
Sugar Loaf peak and across the Potomac the undulating ridge of the
southern spur of Catoctin, and when heights faded in the blue haze of
a midsummer day, we bade farewell to the mountains. Henceforth our way
ran through the lowlands down to the sea, the hills and river bluffs
reaching an altitude of only a few hundred feet.
At Edwards Ferry we saw the wooded face of Ball's Bluff which gave name
to a Civil War conflict which was second only to Bull Run in causing
discomfiture to the people of the North. In this little fight the
country lost a notable figure in the person of General Edward D. Baker,
first United States senator from Oregon.
For miles along this portion of our route we ran without seeing a human
habitation. A dense strip of woodland concealed the river from view and
bluffs or marshy thickets interposed between the canal and the country
to the north. Occasionally through the trees we caught a fleeting
glimpse of beautiful meadows and cornfields of the Maryland farmlands,
but these vistas were rare.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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