South Africa -- Description and travel; South Africa -- History -- 1836-1909; South Africa -- History -- To 1836
I have no doubt that before long the Zulus will make sugar, and will
make it on terms cheaper to the Colony at large than those paid for the
Coolies. But the Indian Coolie has been for a long time in the world’s
workshop, whereas the Zulu has been introduced to it only quite of late.
The drive from the railway station at Umgeni, about four miles from
Durban, through the sugar district to Verulam is very pretty. Some of
the rapid pitches into little valleys, and steep rapid rises put me in
mind of Devonshire. And, as in Devonshire, the hills fall here and there
in a small chaos of broken twisted ridges which is to me always
agreeable and picturesque. After a few turns the traveller, ignorant of
the locality, hardly knows which way he is going, and when he is shewn
some object which he is to approach cannot tell how he will get there.
And then the growth of the sugar cane is always in some degree green,
even in the driest weather. I had hardly seen anything that was not
brown in the Cape Colony, so long and severe had been the drought. In
Natal there was still no rain, but there was a green growth around which
was grateful to the eyes. Altogether I was much pleased with what I saw
of the sugar district of Natal, although I should have been better
satisfied could I have seen Natives at work instead of imported Coolies.
Immediately west of the town as you make the first ascent up from the
sea level towards the interior there is the hill called the Berea on
and about which the more wealthy inhabitants of Durban have built their
villas. Some few of them are certainly among the best houses in South
Africa, and command views down upon the town and sea which would be very
precious to many an opulent suburb in England. Durban is proud of its
Berea and the visitor is taken to see it as the first among the sights
of the place. And as he goes he is called upon to notice the road on
which he is riding. It is no doubt a very good road,--as good as an
ordinary road leading out of an ordinary town in England, and therefore
does not at first attract the attention of the ordinary English
traveller. But roads in young countries are a difficulty and sometimes a
subject of soreness;--and the roads close to the towns and even in the
towns are often so imperfect that it is felt to be almost rude to allude
to them specially. In a new town very much has to be done before the
roads can be macadamized. I was driven along one road into Durban in
company with the Mayor which was certainly not all that a road ought to
be. But this road which we were on now was, when I came to observe it, a
very good road indeed. “And so it ought,” said my companion. “It cost
the Colony----,” I forget what he said it cost. £30,000, I think, for
three or four miles. There had been some blundering, probably some
peculation, and thus the money of the young community had been
squandered. Then, at the other side of Durban, £100,000 had been thrown
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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