South Africa -- Description and travel; South Africa -- History -- 1836-1909; South Africa -- History -- To 1836
into the sea in a vain attempt to keep out the sand. These are the
heartrending struggles which new countries have to make. It is not only
that they must spend their hard-earned money, but that they are so
often compelled to throw it away because in their infancy they have not
as yet learned how to spend it profitably.
Natal has had many hardships to endure and Durban perhaps more than its
share. But there it is now, a prosperous and pleasant seaport town with
a beautiful country round it and thriving merchants in its streets. It
has a park in the middle of it,--not very well kept. I may suggest that
it was not improved in general appearance when I saw it by having a
couple of old horses tethered on its bare grass. Perhaps the grass is
not bare now and perhaps the horses have been taken away. The
combination when I was there suggested poverty on the part of the
municipality and starvation on the part of the horses. There is also a
botanical garden a little way up the hill very rich in plants but not
altogether well kept. The wonder is how so much is done in these places,
rather than why so little;--that efforts so great should be made by
young and therefore poor municipalities to do something for the
recreation and for the relief of the inhabitants! I think that there is
not a town in South Africa,--so to be called,--which has not its
hospital and its public garden. The struggles for these institutions
have to come from men who are making a dash for fortune, generally under
hard circumstances in which every energy is required; and the money has
to be collected from pockets which at first are never very full. But a
colonial town is ashamed of itself if it has not its garden, its
hospital, its public library, and its two or three churches, even in its
early days.
I can say nothing of the hotels at Durban because I was allowed to live
at the club,--which is so peculiarly a colonial institution. Somebody
puts your name down beforehand and then you drive up to the door and ask
for your bedroom. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are provided at stated
hours. At Durban two lunches were provided in separate rooms, a hot
lunch and a cold lunch,--an arrangement which I did not see elsewhere. I
imagine that the hot lunch is intended as a dinner to those who like to
dine early. But, if I am not mistaken, I have seen the same faces coming
out of the hot lunch and going in to the hot dinner. I should imagine
that these clubs cannot be regarded with much favour by the Innkeepers
as they take away a large proportion of the male travellers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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