South Africa -- Description and travel; South Africa -- History -- 1836-1909; South Africa -- History -- To 1836
But Capetown in truth is not of itself a prepossessing town. It is hard
to say what is the combination which gives to some cities their peculiar
attraction, and the absence of which makes others unattractive. Neither
cleanliness, nor fine buildings, nor scenery, nor even a look of
prosperity will effect this,--nor will all of them combined always do
so. Capetown is not specially dirty,--but it is somewhat ragged. The
buildings are not grand, but there is no special deficiency in that
respect. The scenery around is really fine, and the multiplicity of
Banks and of Members of Parliament,--which may be regarded as the two
most important institutions the Colonies produce,--seemed to argue
prosperity. But the town is not pleasing to a stranger. It is as I have
said ragged, the roadways are uneven and the pavements are so little
continuous that the walker by night had better even keep the road. I did
not make special enquiry as to the municipality, but it appeared to me
that the officers of that body were not alert. I saw a market out in the
open street which seemed to be rather amusing than serviceable. To this
criticism I do not doubt but that my friends at the Cape will
object;--but when they do so I would ask whether their own opinion of
their own town is not the same as mine. “It is a beastly place you
know,” one Capetown gentleman said to me.
“Oh no!” said I in that tone which a guest is obliged to use when the
mistress of a house speaks ill of anything at her own table. “No, no;
not that.”
But he persisted. “A beastly place,”--he repeated. “But we have plenty
to eat and plenty to drink, and manage to make out life very well. The
girls are as pretty as they are any where else, and as kind;--and the
brandy and water as plentiful.” To the truth of all these praises I bear
my willing testimony,--always setting aside the kindness of the young
ladies of which it becomes no man to boast.
The same thing may be said of so many colonial towns. There seems to be
a keener relish of life than among our steadier and more fastidious folk
at home, with much less to give the relish. So that one is driven to ask
oneself whether advanced Art, mechanical ingenuity, and luxurious modes
of living do after all add to the happiness of mankind. He who has once
possessed them wants to return to them,--and if unable to do so is in a
far worse position than his neighbours. I am therefore disposed to say
that though Capetown as a city is not lovely, the Capetowners have as
good a time of it as the inhabitants of more beautiful capitals.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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