South Africa -- Description and travel; South Africa -- History -- 1836-1909; South Africa -- History -- To 1836
My last little subsidiary tours in South Africa were made from Capetown
to the country immediately across the Hottentot mountains after my
return from Oudtshoorn and the Cango Caves. It had then become nearly
midsummer and I made up my mind that it would be very hot. I prepared
myself to keep watch and ward against musquitoes and comforted myself by
thinking how cool it would be on my return journey, in the Bay of Biscay
for instance on the first of January. I had heard, or perhaps had
fancied, that the South African musquito would be very venomous and also
ubiquitous. I may as well say here as elsewhere that I found him to be
but a poor creature as compared with other musquitoes,--the musquito of
the United States for instance. The South African December, which had
now come, tallies with June on the other side of the line;--and in June
the musquito of Washington is as a roaring lion.
On this expedition I stopped first at The Paarl, which is not across the
Hottentot mountains but in the district south of the mountains to which
the Dutch were at first inclined to confine themselves when they
regarded the apparently impervious hills at their back as the natural
and sufficient barrier of their South African dominions.
There is now a railway out of Capetown which winds its way through these
mountains, or rather circumvents them by a devious course. It branches
from the Wynberg line a mile or two out of Capetown, and then pursues
its way towards the interior of Africa with one or two assistant
branches on the southern side of the hills. The Wynberg line is
altogether suburban and pleasant. The first assistant branch goes to
Malmesbury and is agricultural. Malmesbury is a corn producing country
in the flats north of Capetown, and will, I hope, before long justify
the railway which has been made. At present I am told that the branch
hardly pays for the fuel it consumes. It no doubt will justify the
railway as wheat can be grown in the district without irrigation, and it
will therefore become peopled with prosperous farmers. Then there is a
loop line to Stellenbosch, an old and thriving little Dutch town which I
did not visit. It is very old, having been founded in 1684. In 1685 the
French Refugees came of whom a large proportion were settled at
Stellenbosch. The main line which is intended to cross the entire Colony
then makes its way on to The Paarl and Wellington,--from whence it takes
its passage among the mountains. This is of course in the Western
Province,--which I must persist in so designating though I know I shall
encounter the wrath of many South African friends of the West. In the
Eastern Province there are two lines which have been commenced from the
coast with the same mission of making their way up into the whole
continent of Africa, one of them starting from Port Elizabeth, intending
to go on by Cradock, with a branch already nearly finished to
Grahamstown, and the other from East London travelling north by King
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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