There were various of these halls or chambers, all opening one to another by passages here and there, so that the visitor who is never compelled to travel far, might suppose them all to be parts of one huge dark mansion underground. But in each hall there were receding closets, guarded by jutting walls of stalactite breast high, round which however on closer search, a way would be found,--as though these might be the private rooms in which the ghouls would hide themselves when thus disturbed by footsteps and voices, by candles and blue lights from above. I was always thinking that I should come upon a ghoul; but there were inner chambers still into which they crept, and whither I could not follow them. Careful walking is necessary, as the ground is uneven; and there are places in which the ghouls keep their supply of water,--stone troughs wonderfully and beautifully made. But except in one place there is no real difficulty in moving about, when once the visitor to the Caves has descended into them. At this place the ascent is perplexing, because the ground is both steep and slippery. I can imagine that a lady or an old man might find it difficult to be dragged up. Such lady or old man should either remain below or allow his companions to drag him up. There is very little stooping necessary anywhere. But it has to be borne in mind that after entering the mouth of the cave and reaching the first chamber, the realms I have described have to be reached by an iron ladder which holds 38 steps. To get on to this ladder requires some little care and perhaps a dash of courage. The precautions taken, however, suffice, and I think I may say that there is no real danger. We called at a Dutch Boer’s house about a mile from the Caves, and were accompanied by three members of the Boer’s family. This is usual, and, I believe, absolutely necessary. I paid one of the men a sovereign for his trouble,--which sum he named as his regular price for the assistance provided. He found the candles, but some of our party took the blue lights with them. Nothing could have been seen without them. From Oudtshoorn I travelled back through the Outiniqua mountains by Robinson’s pass to Mossel Bay, and thence returned by steamer to Capetown. CHAPTER VIII. WESTERN PROVINCE, THE PAARL, CERES, AND WORCESTER.