South Africa -- Description and travel; South Africa -- History -- 1836-1909; South Africa -- History -- To 1836
The only place on the road worthy to be called a town is Heidelberg and
this does not contain above two or three hundred inhabitants. It is the
capital of a district of the same name of which the entire population is
about 2,000. The district is larger than an ordinary English county,
comprising a compact area about 80 miles long by 60 broad, and yet it is
returned as having no other village within its boundaries except the so
called town of Heidelberg. But the place has an air of prosperity about
it and contains two or three mercantile firms which are really doing a
large business. In these places the shops, or stores, are very much more
extensive than would be any such depôts in English villages of the same
size;--so much so that comfortable fortunes may be made in a
comparatively short time. As the Boers are the chief customers, it is
evident that they are learning to spend their money, and are gradually
departing from the old Boer law that the farm should supply everything
needed for life.
At Heidelberg we found a good Inn,--a good Inn that is for the
Transvaal:--but the landlord at once told us that he had got no forage.
Our first work therefore was to go about into the town and beg. This we
did successfully, a merchant of the place consenting to let us have
enough for our immediate requirements, out of his private store. But for
this we must have used the reserve supply we carried with us, and have
gone on upon our road to look for more.
The Inn I have said was good. There was a large room in which a public
table was kept and at which a very good dinner was provided at half-past
six, and a very good breakfast at eight the next morning. There was a
pretty little sitting room within which any lady might make herself
comfortable. The bed and bedroom were clean and sweet. But there was
only one bed tendered for the use of two of us, and a slight feeling
seemed to exist that we were fastidious in requiring more. As more was
not forthcoming my unfortunate companion had to lie upon the ground.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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