After returning from our expedition to the Hadhramout in 1894 we
determined the next winter to attempt the ambitious adventure of making a
journey overland right across Southern Arabia from Maskat to Aden. On our
way we hoped to revisit the Hadhramout, to explore those portions which
we had been compelled to leave unvisited the former winter, and so to
fill up the large blank space which still exists on the map of this
country. Experience taught us that our plan was impracticable; the only
possible way of making explorations in Arabia is to take it piecemeal, to
investigate each district separately, and by degrees to make a complete
map by patching together the results of a number of isolated expeditions.
Indeed, this is the only satisfactory way of seeing any country, for on a
great through journey the traveller generally loses the most interesting
details.
My husband again, to our great satisfaction, had Imam Sharif, Khan
Bahadur, placed at his disposal; and, as the longest way round was the
quickest and best, we determined to make our final preparations in India,
and meet him and his men at Karachi.
We left England at the beginning of November 1894, and at Aden, where we
were obliged to tranship, we picked up our camp furniture, which we had
deposited there on our return from Wadi Hadhramout.
Imam Sharif came on board to meet us at Karachi, and we also received a
letter inviting us to stay at Government House, where we were most kindly
entertained by Mrs. Pottinger, in the absence of her brother, Mr. James,
the Commissioner in Scinde. This was very delightful to us, as we had
already stayed in Reynolds's Hotel when on our way to Persia.
Matthaios had absolutely refused to come with us for fear we should carry
out our great wish of going to Bir Borhut, and indeed the very name of
'_Aravia_' was odious to him. Of course, being in India, we had to take
two men in his place, and accordingly engaged two Goanese, half
Portuguese: one Diego S. Anna Lobo, a little old man, as butler, and the
other, Domingo de Silva, as cook. The former could speak English and
Portuguese; the latter neither, only Hindustani. We took them back to
India with us the following spring, keeping Lobo as our servant during
the time of our stay there.
We had a calm and pleasant voyage of three days to Maskat with Captain
Whitehead on the B.I.S.N. steamer _Chanda_, arriving just in time to
escape a violent storm, which lasted for days, and in its commencement
prevented our landing at the usual place. We had to go round a little
promontory. There was also a good deal of rain, which cooled the air
considerably.
We were the guests of Colonel Hayes Sadler, in his hospitable Residency,
and he interested himself kindly in our affairs, giving us all the help
he could in our arrangements, as did also Dr. Jayaker, the Indian doctor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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