We intended first of all to penetrate into the regions of the Jebel
Akhdar, and then to pass through the territory of the Jenefa tribe to
Ghubbet el Hashish, which takes its name not from land grass, but from
seaweed. There a boat was to meet us and take us westward; in this way we
should avoid a stretch of desert which the Bedouin themselves shrink
from, and which is impassable to Europeans. We could not procure any
information about our journey to the Jebel Akhdar, as it does not appear
to be the fashion at Maskat to go inland. However, both our old friend
the Sultan Feysul and Colonel Sadler took infinite trouble to arrange for
our journey; camels were hired and a horse for me, and the sheikhs of the
tribes through whose country we should have to pass were summoned to
escort us.
Owing, however, to the illness of some of our party, we were at the last
moment obliged to defer the expedition; though we had made all the
preparations we could for the great cold we should have to encounter, the
change of climate would have been injurious to Imam Sharif and two of his
men. As events proved it was fortunate we did so, for the insurrection
(which I have already mentioned) broke out almost immediately afterwards,
and in all probability we should not have returned alive to relate our
experiences.
We next determined to go by sea to Merbat, and thence explore the Dhofar
and Gara mountains. The sultan offered us the use of his _batil_, which
was preparing to go to Zenghiber, as they call Zanzibar. We found on
inspection that it was a small decked boat, with a very light upper deck
at the stern, supported by posts. They were busy smearing the ship with
fish oil. We were told it might be ready in three days, and we might take
seven days or more over the voyage. However, we were delivered from this
long voyage, for, unexpectedly, a steamer arrived most opportunely for
us.
As it was not the pilgrim season, and as there was no cholera about, we
ventured on this steamer, which is one of those that ply under the
Turkish flag between the Persian Gulf and Jedda. The captain was an
Armenian: in fact, all the steamers belonging to Turkey are run by
Armenian companies and manned by Armenian sailors. The captain of the
_Hodeida_ was not too exorbitant in his demand of 500 rupees to drop our
party at Merbat. The steward could fortunately speak Greek.
We left Maskat on Monday, December 17, and had a very calm voyage, but
this being our fifth steamer since we left home, we were anxious for a
little dry land journeying.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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