Between Capes Risout and Merbat we found the sites of ruined towns of
considerable extent in no less than seven different points, though at the
two capes where now is the only anchorage, there are no ruins to be seen,
proving, as we afterwards verified for ourselves, that anchorage of a
superior nature existed in the neighbourhood in antiquity, which has
since become silted up, but which anciently must have afforded ample
protection for the boats which came for the frankincense trade. At Takha,
as we shall presently see, there was a very extensive and deep harbour,
running a considerable distance inland, which with a little outlay of
capital could easily be restored.
After a close examination of these ruined sites, there can be no doubt
that those at spots called now Al Balad and Robat, about two miles east
of the wali's residence, formed the ancient capital of this district. We
visited them on Christmas Day, and were much struck with their extent.
The chief ruins, those of Al Balad, are by the sea, around an acropolis
some 100 feet in height. This part of the town was encircled by a moat
still full of water, and in the centre, still connected with the sea, but
almost silted up, is a tiny harbour. The ground is covered with the
remains of Mohammedan mosques, and still more ancient Sabaean temples, the
architecture of which--namely, the square columns with flutings at the
four corners, and the step-like capitals--at once connects them
architecturally with the columns at Adulis on the Red Sea, those of
Koloe and Aksum in Abyssinia, and those described by M. Arnaud at Mariaba
in Yemen.
In some cases these are decorated with intricate patterns, one of which
is formed by the old Sabaean letters [Symbol: circle with dot in middle]
and X, which may possibly have some religious import. After seeing the
ruins of Adulis and Koloe and the numerous temples or tombs with four
isolated columns, no doubt can be entertained that the same people built
them.
As at Adulis and Koloe there were no inscriptions which could materially
assist us; this may be partly accounted for by the subsequent Mohammedan
occupation, when the temples were converted into mosques, but besides
this the nature of the stone employed at all these places would make it
very difficult to use it for inscribing letters: it is very coarse, and
full of enormous fossils.
This town of Al Balad by the sea is connected by a series of ruins with
another town two miles inland, now called Robat, where the ground for
many acres is covered with ancient remains; big cisterns and
water-courses are here cut in the rock, and standing columns of the same
architectural features are seen in every direction.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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