With the aid of Sprenger's 'Alte Geographie Arabiens,' the best
guide-book the traveller can take into this country, there is no
difficulty in identifying this ancient capital of the frankincense
country as the Manteion Artemidos of Claudius Ptolemy. This name
is obviously a Greek translation of the Sabaean for some well-known oracle
which anciently existed here, not far, as Ptolemy himself tells us, from
Cape Risout. This name eventually became Zufar, from which the modern
name of Dhofar is derived. In a.d. 618 the town was destroyed and Mansura
built, under which name the capital was known in early Mohammedan times.
Various Arab geographers also assist us in this identification. Yakut,
for example, tells us how the Prince of Zufar had the monopoly of the
frankincense trade, and punished with death any infringement of it. Ibn
Batuta says that 'half a day's journey east of Mensura is Alakhaf, the
abode of the Addites,' probably referring to the site of the oracle and
the last stronghold of the ancient cult.
Sprenger sums up the evidence of old writers by saying that the town of
Zufar and the later Mansura must undoubtedly be the ruins of Al Balad.
Thus, having assured ourselves of the locality of the ancient capital of
the frankincense country--for no other site along the plain has ruins
which will at all compare in extent and appearance with those of Al
Balad--we shall, as we proceed on our journey, find that other sites fall
easily into their proper places, and an important verification of ancient
geography and an old-world centre of commerce has been obtained.
The ruins at Al Balad and Robat were last inhabited during the Persian
occupation, about the time of the Crusades, 500 of the Hejira. They
utilised the old Himyaritic columns to build their mosques. Some of the
tombs have beautiful carving on them.
In the ruins of one temple the columns were elaborately carved with a
kind of _fleur-de-lis_ pattern, and the bases decorated with a floral
design, artistically interwoven.
I had dreadful difficulty with a photograph which I took of these
columns. I developed it at night, tormented by mosquitoes, and in the
morning it was all cracked and dried off its celluloid foundation. I put
it in alum, and it floated off half an inch too large in both directions.
If I had had a larger plate on which to mount it, it would have been an
easy enough job, but I had not, so I was obliged to work it down on to
the original plate with my thumbs. It took me seven solid hours, and I
had to be fed with two meals, for I could never move my thumbs nor eyes
off my work. I felt very proud that the cracks did not show when a
magic-lantern slide was made from it.
There was a great deal of vegetation among the ruins. Specially beautiful
was a very luxuriant creeper called by the inhabitants _asaleb_. It has a
luscious, large, pear-shaped red fruit with seeds which, when bitten, are
like pepper. It has large flowers, which are white at first, and then
turn pink.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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