In the Wadi Ghersid, amongst the dense vegetation which makes the spot a
veritable paradise, we came across many Bedouin of the Beit al Kathan
family tending their flocks and dwelling in the caves. They were all
exceedingly obsequious to Sheikh Sehel, and we soon found that he was a
veritable king amongst them, and forthwith we gave up any attempt to
guide our own footsteps, but left ourselves entirely in his hands, to
take us whither he would and spend as long about it as he liked. One
thing which interested us very much was to see the greetings of the
Bedouin: for an acquaintance they merely rub the palms of their hands
when they meet, and then kiss the tips of their respective fingers; for
an intimate friend they join hands and kiss each other; but for a
relative they not only join hands, but they rub noses and finally kiss on
either cheek. Whenever we met a party of their friends on our way, it was
a signal for a halt that these greetings might be observed, and then
followed a pipe. At first we rather resented these halts; but they take
such a short time over their whiff of tobacco, and are so disconsolate
without it, that we soon gave up complaints at these delays. They
literally only take one whiff and pass the stone pipe on, so that a halt
for a smoke seldom lasts more than five minutes, and all are satisfied.
Sheikh Sehel met many of his relatives in the Wadi Ghersid, and his nose
was subject to many energetic rubs, and the novelty of this greeting,
about which one had vaguely read in years gone by, excited our interest
deeply, but at the same time we were thankful we were not likely to meet
any relatives in the valley, and to have to undergo the novel sensations
in person.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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