Every afternoon, when our tents were pitched and our baggage open, whole
rows of Bedouin would sit outside asking for medicine; pills, of special
violence of course, and quinine were the chief drugs required, and then
we had many sore eyes and revolting sores of every description, requiring
closer attention. As to the pills, we had some difficulty in getting the
Bedouin not to chew them, but when one man, Mas'ah by name, solemnly
chewed five Holloway's pills and was very sick after so doing, it began
to dawn upon them that our method was the right one. Most embarrassing of
all our patients was old Sheikh Sehel himself. Fortune had been kind to
him in most respects: she had given him wealth and power amongst men, and
the fickle goddess had bestowed upon him two wives, but alas! no
offspring, and to seek for a remedy for this, to a savage, overwhelming
disaster, he came with his head-men to the tent of the European medicine
men. It was in vain for my husband to tell him that he had brought no
remedy for this complaint. They had seen him on one or two occasions
consult a small medicine book, and their only reply to his negative was,
'The book; get out the book, Theodore,' and he had solemnly to pretend to
go through the volume before they could be convinced that he had no
medicine to meet the case.
It was curious to hear their morning greeting, 'Sabakh, Theodore! Sabakh,
Mabel!' The women of the Gara tribe are timid creatures, small, and not
altogether ill-looking; in fact the Garas are, as a tribe, undersized and
of small limbs, but exceedingly active and lithe. The women do not
possess the wealth in savage jewellery which we found to be the case in
the Hadhramout the previous year, nor do they paint themselves so
grotesquely with turmeric and other dyes, but indulge only in a few
patches of black, sticky stuff like cobbler's wax on their faces, and a
touch of antimony round their eyes and joining their eyebrows; they wear
no veils, and at first we could not get near them, as they ran away in
terror at our approach. They have but poor jewellery--silver necklaces,
armlets, nose, toe, and finger rings. One evening, when up in the
mountains, we were told that a harem wished to see us, and we were
conducted to a spot just out of sight of our tents, where sat three
females on the ground looking miserably shy, and in their nervousness
they plucked and ate grass, and constantly as we approached retreated
three or four steps back and seated themselves again. Presently, after
much persuasion, we got one of them to come to the tent and accept a
present of needles and other oddments, the delight of womankind all the
world over. Altogether these Gara women formed a marked and pleasant
contrast to the Bedouin women in the Hadhramout, who literally besieged
us in our tent, and never gave us any peace.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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