On January 4 we were at Beit el Khatan. We had to climb on foot. The
valley became narrower as we went on, and the cliffs at the side were
full of long caverns, with great stumpy stalactites and stalagmites,
looking like teeth in gigantic mouths. The rocks we had to climb up were
very rough and rugged, but where millions of camels' feet in thousands of
years had polished them they were quite smooth and slippery. When we got
above the woods, all very hot, we were able to ride again, at an
elevation of 2,600 feet, on undulating, grassy ground.
We encamped under two large fig-trees, and the weather being cloudy and
windy were glad to find a quantity of wood ready gathered, the remains of
a night shelter. There was muddy water at a little distance. The climate
seems most healthy, in winter at least. Three kinds of figs grow here.
Some are little purple ones with narrow leaves, and some large red ones
with broad leaves.
Leaving the Wadi Ghersid we had a beautiful journey. We two enjoyed every
minute of the three hours and a half.
We went up the valley through a thick forest of lovely trees. There were
myrtles, ilex, figs, acacia, and a quantity of other trees, with climbing
cacti and other creepers, and great high trees of jasmin. Sometimes it
was hard enough to get through the bushes and under the trees, perched up
aloft on our camels. We were down in the river-bed part of the time, and
then climbing through the forest to get to the top of the falls. Above
the forest rise tiers of cliffs, and there were trees at the top on a
tableland, as well as large isolated trees on most of the mountain tops,
sheltering many birds.
We had to wait fully an hour for our tent, as the servants' camels were
somehow belated, and it was considered to be all owing to the jinni,
whose abode we passed. Large white bustards assembled round our camp.
Once we were settled, there was the usual run on the medicine chest. A
very nice Bedou soldier, Aman, the head one, was given five pills into
one hand by my husband, and as he insisted on grasping his weapons with
his other, he had such difficulty in consuming them that I had to hold
the cup of water for him to sip from.
Madder trees grow about, and the Bedouin make clothes from the silky
fibres.
We ascended a good deal the following day, to a point whence our view
extended over the great central desert. It looked like a blue sea with a
yellow shore. We then turned a little to the south, then north again, and
found ourselves among a quantity of wooded spurs, and on the edge of a
deep wooded wadi.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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