Right up to the tops of the mountains, which reach an elevation of about
3,000 feet, the ground is fertile and covered with grass, on which large
herds of cattle feed; clusters of sycamores and limes growing here and
there give to the undulating hills quite a park-like appearance. As we
happened to be there in the dry season, the grass was all brown and
slippery, and there stood around us acres upon acres of hay with no one
to harvest it; but after the rains the aspect of the Gara hills must be
as green and pleasant as those of Derbyshire. The dry grass often catches
fire, and from the mountains in various directions we saw columns of
smoke arising as if from the chimneys of a manufacturing district. The
country through which we travelled for the next two days is covered with
thorny bushes and anthills, and is more like Africa than Arabia. The
anthills, though very extensive, were not so fantastic as those we saw in
Africa. We were going eastward over high ground; we decided to halt for
two nights near a pretty little hole full of maidenhair fern, where there
was water. It was nice and clean at first, but even at the end of the
first day it was much diminished and very muddy. Travellers like
ourselves must be a great nuisance drinking up the scanty supply of water
which might last the inhabitants for a long while.
We had hoped to get a good rest after our many days of marching, but
while we were here there came on the most frightful hurricane from the
north; it blew steadily for two days and nights and put all rest out of
the question. With difficulty could we keep our tents erect; when we were
in ours we had to be tightly tied in and sit next to the sunniest wall;
in the evening when the wind abated a little we used to sit by a large
fire, dressed in blankets.
The piercing blasts quite shrivelled up our poor unclad conductors, who
crouched in an inert mass round log fires which they made. We were
obliged to remain inactive, for they said the camels would not move
during this wind, though I believe the cause of inaction rose more from
their own dislike to travel in the cold; and so inert were they that we
could hardly get them to fetch us water from the neighbouring spring,
their whole energy being expended in fetching huge logs of wood to keep
the fires burning, and I think they were all pleased when the time came
to descend to the lower regions again and a warmer atmosphere.
We were afraid to start before the sun was up for fear the camels would
be too cold to move, and he did not visit us very early.
Sheikh Sehel promised to take us across the Gara border into Nejd if we
wished; but as it would have entailed a considerable delay and parley
with the sheikhs of the Nejd Bedouin, and as we could see from our
present vantage ground that the country would afford us absolutely no
objects of interest, we decided not to attempt this expedition.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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