On leaving our very exposed and nameless camping-ground, we pursued our
course in a north-east direction, still passing through the same
park-like scenery, through acres and acres of lovely hay, to be had for
nothing a ton. It is exceedingly slippery, and dangerous foothold for the
camels; consequently numerous falls were the result, and much of our
journey had to be done on foot.
We and they used involuntarily to sit down and slide and be brought up
suddenly by a concealed rock.
To the south the descent is abrupt and rocky to the plain of Dhofar and
the Indian Ocean, and the horizon line on either side is remarkably
similar, for in the far, far distance the sandy desert becomes a straight
blue line like a horizon of water. To the east and west the arid
barrenness of Arabia soon asserts itself, whereas the undulating Gara
range, like the Cotswold, is fertile, and rounded with deep valleys and
ravines running into it full of rich tropical vegetation.
On the second day we began again to descend a hideously steep path, and a
drop of about 1,500 feet brought us to a remarkable cave just above the
plain, and only about ten or twelve miles from Al Hafa. This cave burrows
far into the mountain side, and is curiously hung with stalactites, and
contains the deserted huts of a Bedou village, only inhabited during the
rains. Immediately below this cave in the Wadi Nahast are the ruins of an
extensive Sabaean town, in the centre of which is a natural hole 150 feet
deep and about 50 feet in diameter; around this hole are the remains of
walls, and the columns of a large entrance gate. We asked for information
about this place, but all we could get in reply was that it was the well
of the Addites, the name always associated with the ruins of the bygone
race. They also said the Minqui had lived in the town. In my opinion this
spot is the site of the oracle mentioned by Ptolemy and others, from
which the capital of Dhofar took its name. It much resembles the deep
natural holes, which we found in Cilicia in Asia Minor, where the oracles
of the Corycian and Olbian Zeus were situated. It is just below the great
cave I have mentioned, and, as a remarkable natural phenomenon, it must
have been looked upon with awe in ancient days, and it was a seat of
worship, as the ruined walls and gateway prove; furthermore, it is just
half a day's journey east of the city of Mansura or Zufar, where, Ibn
Batuta somewhat contemptuously says, 'is Al Akhaf, the abode of the
Addites,' and there is no other point on the plain of Dhofar where the
oracle could satisfactorily be located from existing evidence. Some time,
perhaps, an enterprising archaeologist may be able to open the ruins about
here, and verify the identification from epigraphical evidence.
When we reached the valley Imam Sharif said: 'We do not know how we got
down that place, for all of our feet was each 36 inches from the other
foot.' We had such trouble squeezing through the trees, too.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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