That winter we added a few square miles to a blank corner of the map
where re-discovery was necessary, and where re-discovery will go on apace
and produce most interesting results, when we have finished conquering
the barbarous followers of the Khalifa, and restore law and order to that
wide portion of Africa known as the Eastern Soudan; for the Soudan,
meaning in Arabic 'the country of the blacks,' really extends from the
Atlantic to the Red Sea. Little did we think when we started to explore
the western shores of the Red Sea that the explosion with the Dervishes
was so near, otherwise I think we should have turned our steps in another
direction.
We had with us Mr. Alfred Cholmley, who took numbers of beautiful
photographs, and Lieutenant, now Captain, N. M. Smyth, D.S.O., Queen's
Bays, kindly attached to our expedition by Colonel Sir F. Wingate, and to
his exertions we owe the map.
My husband had always thought it foolish to engage an interpreter unknown
to him, on his own responsibility, and would only have one recommended by
the official of our Government. The choice made for us on this occasion
was not at all successful. He tried to make out that he was the principal
leader of the party, and his impedimenta far exceeded ours. He may or may
not have been sent to keep us from going more than ten miles from the
coast, but no explorer would wish to remain within the limits set down in
the Admiralty Chart. My husband found it necessary to dispense with his
services when we were at Mersa Halaib, and we got on far better without
him.
Our first task was to choose a ship; it was exciting work rowing about in
the harbour of Suez in order to find one that would suit us.
A letter from our interpreter had told us we could have one at 120_l._ a
month, a sum which our great experience of sailing-boats told us was
quite too large. When we started our search, having refused this, we were
only shown wretched boats in which we could hardly sit and certainly not
stand. We espied one we thought would do, and said nothing at that time,
but afterwards my husband and Matthaios went off by themselves and
engaged her for 35_l._ a month, and I do not think that a better ship was
to be found in Suez--certainly there was none worth 120_l._
Our boat was an Arab dhow of 80 tons, named the _Taisir_; we at once put
her in the hands of a carpenter, who boarded off two cabins for us four
whites, in the big, open stern cabin, leaving a sort of verandah in front
of them, about 8 feet in depth, where we lived by day. Campbell Bey, who
lives at Terre Pleine, pronounced by the English Terry Plain, kindly lent
us two water-tanks containing half a ton each.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account