As we ourselves, during the course of our excavations, brought to light
objects of distinctly Phoenician origin, there would appear to be no
longer any room for doubt that the mounds which lay before us were a vast
necropolis of this mercantile race. If so, one of two suppositions must
be correct, either firstly, that the Phoenicians originally lived here
before they migrated to the Mediterranean, and that this was the land of
Punt from which the Puni got their name, a land of palms like the Syrian
coast from which the race got their distorted Greek appellation of
Phoenicians; or secondly, that these islands were looked upon by them
as a sacred spot for the burial of their dead, as the Hindoo looks upon
the Ganges, and the Persian regards the shrines of Kerbela and Meshed. I
am much more inclined to the former supposition, judging from the
mercantile importance of the Bahrein Islands and the excellent school
they must have been for a race which was to penetrate to all the then
known corners of the globe--to brave the dangers of the open Atlantic,
and to reach the shores of Britain in their trading ventures; and if
nomenclature goes for anything, the name of Tyros and the still-existing
name of Arad ought to confirm us in our belief and make certainty more
certain.
Our camp was pitched on this desert among the tumuli. The ground was hard
and rough, covered with very sharp stones; though dry, it sounded hollow,
and it seemed as though there were water under it.
Our own tent occupied a conspicuous and central place; our servants' tent
was hard by, liable to be blown down by heavy gusts of wind, which event
happened the first night after our arrival, to the infinite discomfiture
of the bazaar-master, who, by the way, had left his grand clothes at
home, and appeared in the desert clad in a loose coffee-coloured
dressing-gown, with a red band round his waist. Around the tents swarmed
turbaned diggers, who looked as if they had come out in their
night-gowns, dressing-gowns, and bath-sheets. These lodged at night in
the bamboo village of Ali hard by, a place for which we developed the
profoundest contempt, for the women thereof refused to pollute themselves
by washing the clothes of infidels, and our garments had to be sent all
the way to Manamah to be cleansed. A bamboo structure formed a shelter
for the kitchen, around which, on the sand, lay curious coffee-pots,
bowls, and cooking utensils, which would have been eagerly sought after
for museums in Europe. The camel, which fetched the daily supply of water
from afar, grazed around on the coarse desert herbage; the large white
donkey which went into the town for marketing by day, and entangled
himself in the tent ropes by night, was also left to wander at his own
sweet will. This desert camp was evidently considered a very peculiar
sight indeed, and no wonder that for the first week of our residence
there, we were visited by all the inhabitants of Bahrein who could find
time to come so far.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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