The people of this portion of the Soudan between the coast and the Nile
Valley, who do not own allegiance to the Khalifa, belong to the Morghani
confraternity of Mohammedans; their young religious sheikh, a
self-possessed, clever lad of about twenty, lives at Sawakin, and his
influence amongst the tribes not affecting Mahdism is supreme. He is
devoted to British interests, and no doubt in the present condition of
affairs his co-operation will be of great value. The Egyptian Government
instructed him to write to the sheikhs around Halaib and Mohammed Gol to
insure our safety, and to this fact I am convinced we owe the immunity
from danger we enjoyed, and the assistance given to us in penetrating
inland from Mohammed Gol. The Morghani have the three cicatrices on
either cheek, and as a confraternity they are not in the least fanatical,
and are well disposed to Christians; very different to the Arabs we met
in the Hadhramout, and very different to the Dervishes with whom they are
on such hostile terms.
While at Halaib I paid several visits to the wife and family of the
mamour or governor. They were very civil always, and used to kiss me.
They looked quite as unsettled in their airy brushwood arbours as if they
had not resided there steadily for seven years.
There were three huts about 12 feet by 8 feet, one being a kitchen. There
is a brushwood fence all round, part having a shed for the stores and
water jars. The wife is a Turk, and has one plain grown-up daughter.
There was an old lady who made coffee, and a black maid slightly draped
in a sheet once white, but now of a general deep grey, pure black in some
parts. I liked getting coffee and ginger best. The first day I had to
swallow, smiling, tea boiled and a little burnt.
All the furniture I saw was a 3-foot bed, three Austrian chairs, a very
common wooden table, and a little iron one with a new and tight pink
cotton cover and petticoat to the ground. All was very clean but the
maid.
The kind lady thought her dwelling so superior to mine that she begged me
to come and sleep in the bed with her in shelter from the wind; tents,
she said, were only fit for men. I did not envy her her home in the
drenching rain we had all night and half one day. She wore a string round
under one arm, with seven or eight charms like good-sized pincushions or
housewifes of different coloured silks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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