We made two expeditions from Halaib; the first was to the ruins now known
as Sawakin Kadim, which are on the coast twelve miles north of Halaib. As
only six camels could be obtained we went by boat ourselves, leaving the
camels for the baggage. For this purpose we deserted the _Taisir_ and
hired a smaller _kattira_, and having gone as near as we could to land,
and been in considerable danger from coral reefs, on which we ran
suddenly, nearly capsizing, we took to the houri that we had towed
astern. It was very like sitting in a bath, and, after the houri, we had
to be carried a long way. We encamped not far from the shore, and had to
endure a dreadful _khamsin_ and dust-storm from the south, with such
violent wind that I was blown down, and Matthaios dug our beds out twice
with a trowel; and the next day we found the north wind nearly as bad.
Why it did not raise the sand I do not know.
Sawakin Kadim is like Berenice, nothing but a mass of mounds, but it must
at some time or another have been a much larger place. We excavated one
of these mounds, but found nothing earlier than Kufic remains, unless the
graves, which were constructed of four large blocks of madrepore sunk
deep into the ground, may be looked upon as a more ancient form of
sepulture. We opened several, but unfortunately they contained nothing
but bones. Originally this town must have been built on an island, or an
artificial moat must have been dug round it to protect it on the mainland
side; this is now silted up, but is traceable all along. Three large
cisterns for water are still in a fair state of preservation, and I am
told that a Kufic inscription was found here some years ago. There seems
no doubt that this town is the one mentioned by the Arab geographers,
Abou'lfida and Edrisi, by the name of Aydab, which was a place of
considerable importance between Ras Bernas and Sawakin. There are no
traces elsewhere along this coast of any other town, consequently we can
fairly place it here. Abou'lfida says: 'Aydab is a town in the land of
Bedja; it is politically dependent on Egypt, though some say it is in
Abyssinia. This is the meeting-place for the merchants of Yemen and the
pilgrims, who, leaving Egypt, prefer the sea route and embark for Yedda.
In other respects Aydab has more the aspect of a village than a town, and
it is seven days' march north of Sawakin, where the chief of the Bedjas
lives.' Counting a day's march at twenty-five miles, this would place it
near Halaib, which is 170 miles north of Sawakin. Hitherto on our maps
Aydab has been placed near Mohammed Gol, but, as there are no traces of
ruins there except the towers to which we shall presently allude, this
position for an ancient town is untenable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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