The tower of Asafra, which marks the entrance to the Hadi Valley, is
about 20 feet high, and is octagonal. It struck us, from its position at
the entrance of the valley system to the north of Mount Erba, that its
original object had been a landmark which would be seen from the sea; had
it been a tomb it would not have had the windows, and had it been either
a tomb or a fort it would have had a door. There we halted, and bade
adieu to the governors and officials of Mohammed Gol, who had accompanied
us thus far. Our parting was almost dramatic, and the injunctions to the
sheikh to see to our safety were reiterated with ever additional
vehemence, the mamour holding my husband's hand all the time.
Near the well of Hadi are numerous ancient structures of a different
nature and more puzzling to account for. Circular walls, from 10 to 14
feet in diameter and 3 feet high, have been built, some in the valleys
and some high up on the hills. The interiors of these have been filled
with stones, the largest of which are in the centre, and in the middle of
these large stones is a depression a foot or so deep. They certainly
looked like tombs of some departed race, especially as they were
generally placed in groups of two or three, and they resembled the tombs
in the north of Abyssinia, except that those are filled with mounds of
small stones, whereas these have larger stones and a depression in the
centre. The water turned out to be rather like port wine to look at, full
of little fish, tadpoles, and leeches. We put alum in a bucket to
precipitate the worst mud, then filtered it without making it clear, but
it was a tremendous improvement. I think there really was a better
water-place near, but we did not find it. Bad as it was, water was taken
for three days, as they said we should see none for that time. As a
matter of fact, I think the people did not want us to know the
water-places.
We had a very warm night at Hadi, our tent, beds, and even clothes
swarmed with beetles.
On February 7 we started for Gumatyewa. All day we went among little
pointed hills, some, indeed many, marked with most curious veins of
ironstone, sometimes in cross-bars. We soon reached a place in the Wadi
Gumatyewa, whence a camel to our surprise was sent for water, and was not
very long away, so water cannot have been far off. The rest of the camels
were unloaded, and we sat and waited under some trees. In fact, we could
have camped near water each of the days which we took getting to Hadai.
The sheikhs generally encamped at a little distance from us, and as they
were given to nocturnal conversations and monotonous noises which they
called singing, we were glad they were not too near.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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