We gradually ascended as we followed the valleys inland, after the Wadi
Iroquis, until on the fourth day we came to a curious narrow winding
pass, about six miles long, which just left room between the rocks for
our camels to walk in single file. This pass, which is called Todin,
landed us on a small plateau about 2,000 feet above the sea-level, where
we found a large number of the circular remains. Todin is one of the most
important approaches into the Soudan on the north side of the Erba group,
and is practicable the whole way for camels, from which we never once had
occasion to dismount, though going down might not be so pleasant. Before
reaching the pass of Todin we passed a most curious mountain, seeming to
block up the valley. It looked rather like a rhinoceros feeding among the
acacia-trees.
Taking this country generally, I can safely say it is as uninteresting
and arid a country as any we have ever visited. Our way perpetually led
through valleys winding between low brown mountains, the dry river beds
of which were studded here and there with acacia-trees. Occasionally one
got a glimpse of the majestic spurs of Erba, and occasionally a fantastic
rock or a hill-slope a trifle greener than the rest would temporarily
raise our spirits.
As for water, we had the greatest difficulty about it, and our guides
always enveloped its existence with a shroud of mystery. Men would be
sent off to the hills with a camel, and return to the camp with skins of
water from somewhere, probably from gulleys where rain-water still lay;
but until we reached Wadi Hadai, after a ride of six days, we never saw
water with our own eyes after leaving Hadi. More water can be obtained by
digging. There is a great deal of _Mesembryanthemum_ about, which
probably supplies the place of water to most of the animals living in
these regions. A good many doves came to drink at the water in the
evening.
Two days more brought us to Wadi Hadai, where we were to halt awhile to
rest the camels. On the hill immediately above us was the circular fort,
with its door to the east, to which I shall later allude, and on the
plain below was another and smaller Kufic tower, several round buildings,
and large stones erected on several of the adjacent hills evidently to
act as landmarks. Also here we saw many graves of the Debalohp
family--neat heaps of white stones, with a double row of white stones
forming a pattern around them, and a headstone towards Mecca, on one of
which was a rude Arabic inscription. These tombs reminded us very
forcibly of the Bogos tombs in Northern Abyssinia, and evidently point to
a kinship of custom.
The place where we stayed in a wood of thorny trees was at the branching
of two valleys. We always had cold nights, but our widely spread camp
looked cheery enough with eight fires; there were so many different
parties.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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