Once we got into Wadi Hadai we were in Debalohp's country. He was chief
of the large and powerful Kilab tribe, half of which owns avowed
allegiance to the Khalifa, and the other half, with their chief, is put
down as wavering by the Government at Sawakin. Luckily we did not know
this at the time, or otherwise I question if we should have ventured to
put ourselves so entirely in his hands, with the horrors of a visit to
Khartoum, as experienced by Slatin Pasha, so fresh in our memories.
At Hadai for the first time during the whole of our journey our interests
were keenly aroused in certain antiquities we found--antiquities about
which Debalohp had said a good deal, but about which we had never
ventured to indulge any hopes.
Hard by the Debalohp mausoleum was another Kufic tower, though much
smaller than those we had seen on the coast, and not covered with white
cement, and in the same locality were several foundations of circular
buildings very neatly executed in dry masonry, which appeared to have at
either end the bases of two circular towers and curious bulges, which at
once reminded us of our South African ruins. On climbing an adjacent hill
we found a circular fort, evidently constructed for strategical purposes,
with a doorway, the ends of the wall being rounded, quite a counterpart
of the smaller ruin on the Lundi river in Mashonaland. The analogy was
indeed curious, and we talked about it hesitatingly to ourselves, as yet
unable to give any satisfactory reason for its existence. On various
heights around were cairns erected as if for landmarks, and we felt that
here at last we were in the presence of one of those ancient mysteries
which it is so delightful to solve.
We had as interpreter from Arabic to Hadendowa, as none of our party
understood that language, the sheikh whose name was Hassan Bafori. He
brought three coursing dogs with him. We had also with us a certain
Annibale Piacentini as general odd man. He was really Italian, but had
lived so long among Greeks in Suez that he was always called Annibale. He
talked Greek with my husband, Mattaios, and me, and English with the
others, besides Arabic.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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