According to the Admiralty charts the water between the islands and the
mainland is 500 fathoms deep, but among the islands nowhere is it deeper
than 200 fathoms.
It is an island that seems to be very much in the way as far as
navigation is concerned, and many shipwrecks have been occasioned by its
being confused with the mainland, one being taken for the other. The
wreck of the _Aden_, and the great loss of life resulting from it, which
took place so soon after we were there, is still fresh in our memories.
Our party consisted of Mr. Bennett, who was new to Eastern life, our old
Greek servant, Matthaios, and two young Somali, Mahmoud and Hashi. They
could talk a little English, but generally talked Arabic to us and
Matthaios. We were told before starting that Mahri, or Mehri, was the
language most in use, and we nearly committed the serious error of
taking a Mahri man from Arabia, who could also speak Arabic, as an
interpreter, but fortunately we did not do so, as he would have been
quite useless, unless he could also have talked Sokoteriote.
We found it no easy matter to get there. First we were told we should, if
we attempted to go by sailing-boat, have to coast to Ras Fartak, on the
Arabian coast, and let the monsoon blow us to Sokotra, and this seemed
impracticable. Finally we arranged with a British India steamer, the
_Canara_, that it should 'deviate' and deposit us there for a
consideration.
The ss. _Canara_ promised to await the arrival of the P. and O. steamer
before leaving Aden, and would, for one thousand rupees (62_l._), take us
to Sokotra and remain four hours. After that we were to pay thirty rupees
an hour, and in no case would she tarry more than twenty-four hours. If
landing were impossible, we were to be carried to Bombay.
We were landed in a lifeboat, through the surf at the town of Kalenzia,
which lies at the western end of the island. It is a wretched spot, a
jumble of the scum of the East; Arab traders, a Banyan or two, a
considerable Negroid population in the shape of soldiers and slaves, and
Bedouin from the mountains, who come down with their skins and jars of
clarified butter, to despatch in dhows to Zanzibar, Maskat, and other
butterless places.
Butter is now the chief product and almost the sole export of the island,
and Sokotra butter has quite a reputation in the markets along the shores
of Arabia and Africa. The sultan keeps a special dhow for the trade, and
the Bedouin's life is given up to the production of butter. Nowhere, I
think, have I seen so many flocks and herds in so limited a space as
here.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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