Kalenzia (the place has been spelt in so many ways that we took the
liberty of spelling it phonetically as we heard it pronounced) has an
apology for a port, or roadstead, facing the African coast, which is the
most sheltered during the prevalence of the north-east monsoon. Separated
from the shore by a bar of shingle is a lagoon, fed by the waters coming
down from the encircling mountains, which reach an altitude of 1,500 or
2,000 feet. The lagoon is very prettily embowered with palms and
mangroves, and the waters are covered with wild duck, but it is a wonder
that all the inhabitants do not die of fever, for the water is very
fetid-looking and they drink from nothing else. I believe this is the
water which is supplied to ships. The shore is rendered pestiferous by
rotting seaweed, and the bodies of sharks, with back fin cut out and tail
cut off, which are exposed to dry on the beach. We preferred the brackish
water from a well hard by our camp until we discovered a nice stream
under the slopes of the mountains, about three miles away, to which we
sent skins to be filled. This stream is under the northern slope of the
Kalenzia range, and near it are the ruins of an ancient town, and as the
water trickles on towards the lagoon it fertilises the country
exceedingly, and its banks are rich in palms and other trees. The
abandoned site of this old town is infinitely preferable to the modern
one, and much healthier.
We were received in a most friendly way by the inhabitants, and hoped
that, as we were English and the island was to some extent under British
protection, we should be able to proceed inland at once. Our nationality,
however, made not the slightest difference to them, and we were told we
must encamp while our letters were taken to the sultan, who lives beyond
Tamarida, and await his permission to proceed farther. The eight days we
had to remain here were the most tedious of those we spent on the island.
One of our amusements was to watch boat-building accomplished by tying a
bundle of bamboos together at each end and pushing them out into shape
with wooden stretchers.
They have enormous lobster-pots, 6 feet to 8 feet in diameter, made of
matting woven with split bamboo, in patterns something like the seats of
our chairs. The men often wear their tooth-brushes tied to their turbans;
a sprig of arrack serves the purpose.
Whilst at Kalenzia we must have had nearly all the inhabitants of the
place at our tent asking for a remedy for one disease or another; they
seemed to be mostly gastric troubles, which they would describe as pains
revolving in their insides like a wheel, and wounds. The Sokotra medical
lore is exceedingly crude. One old man we found by the shore having the
bowels of a crab put on a very sore finger by way of ointment. A baby of
very tender age (eleven months) had had its back so seared by a red-hot
iron that it could get no rest, and cried most piteously.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account