The Bedou houses are round, and surrounded by a round wall in which the
flocks are penned at night; flat-roofed and covered with soil, and inside
they are as destitute of interest as it is possible to conceive--a few
mats on which the family sleep, a few jars in which they store their
butter, and a skin churn in which they make the same. The plan of those
houses that are oblong is that of two circles united by a bit of wall at
one side, the door being at the other. In one house into which my husband
penetrated he found a bundle hanging from the ceiling, which he
discovered to be a baby by the exposure of one of its little feet.
Everything is poor and pastoral. The Bedouin have hardly any clothes to
cover themselves with, nothing to keep them warm when the weather is
damp, save a home-spun sheet, and they have no ideas beyond those
connected with their flocks. The closest intimacy exists between a Bedou
and his goats and his cows; the animals understand and obey certain calls
with absolute accuracy, and you generally see a Sokotran shepherdess
walking before her flock, and not after it. The owners stroke and caress
their little cows until they are as tame as dogs.
The cows in Sokotra are far more numerous than one would expect, and
there is excellent pasturage for them; they are a very pretty little
breed, smaller than our Alderney, without the hump, and with the long
dewlap; they are fat and plump, and excellent milkers.
The Bedou does very little in the way of cultivation, but when grass is
scarce, and consequently milk, he turns his attention to the sowing of
jowari in little round fields dotted about the valleys, with a wall round
to keep the goats off. In each of these he digs a well, and waters his
crop before sunrise and after sunset; the field is divided into little
compartments by stones, the better to retain the soil and water; and
sometimes you will see a Bedou papa with his wife and son sitting and
tilling these _bijou_ fields with pointed bits of wood, for other tools
are unknown to them.
We hired our camels for our journey eastwards from the Arab merchants who
live at Tamarida or Hadibo; they are the sole camel proprietors in the
island, as the Bedouin own nothing but their flocks; and excellent
animals these camels are, too, the strongest and tallest we had seen. Of
our camel-men, some were Bedouin and some were negroes, and we found them
on the whole honest and obliging, though with the usual keen eye for a
possible bakshish, which is not uncommon elsewhere.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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