The eastern end of Sokotra is similar in character to the western, being
a low continuation of the spurs of Haghier, intersected with valleys, and
with a plateau stretching right away to Ras Momi about 1,500 feet above
the sea-level. This plateau is a perfect paradise for shepherds, with
much rich grass all over it; but it is badly watered, and water has to be
fetched from the deep pools which are found in all its valleys at the
driest season of the year, and in the rainy season these become
impassable torrents, sweeping trees and rocks before them; and the
hillsides up to the edge of the bare dolomitic pinnacles of the Haghier
range are thickly clothed with vegetation.
Three considerable streams run from southward of Mount Haghier,
fertilising three splendid valleys, until the waters, as the sea is
approached, lose themselves in the sand. To the north there are many more
streams, and inasmuch as the sea is considerably nearer, they all reach
it, or, rather, the silted-up lagoons already alluded to.
By the side of these streams innumerable palm-groves grow--in fact, dates
form the staple food of the islanders. And out of the date-tree they get
branches for their hedges, stems for their roofs; the leaf provides them
with their sleeping-mats, and, when beaten on stones, with fibre, with
which they are exceedingly clever in making ropes. Our camel-men were
always at it, and produced, with the assistance of fingers and toes, the
most excellent rope at the shortest possible notice. They also make
strong girdles with this fibre, which the slaves, who are employed in
fertilising the palm-trees, bind round their bodies and the trees so as
to facilitate their ascent, and provide them with a firm seat when the
point of operation is reached. They weave, too, baskets, or, rather,
stiff sacks, in which to hang their luggage on either side of the camel.
A Sokotran camel-man is a most dexterous packer. He must first obliterate
his camel's hump by placing against it three or four thick felt mats or
_nummuds_, and on this raised surface he builds all his luggage,
carefully secured in his baskets, with the result that we never, during
any of our expeditions with camels, had so little damage done to our
property, even though the roads were so mountainous and the box-bushes
were constantly rubbing against the loads. The camels are very fine
specimens of their race, standing considerably higher than the Arabian
animal, and when mounted on the top of our luggage, above the hump thus
unnaturally raised, we felt at first disagreeably elevated.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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