On January 17 we forced our way on through more woods, the peak of Toff
seeming to fill up the end of the valley, to the Wadi Dishel, and crossed
over to the Wadi Dikadik, where we settled near a wide river in a
beautiful grassy spot, with many trees entwined with monkey-ropes,
rejoicing that on the following day we should reach Fereghe, or Fereghet,
where we intended to rest some time. We had heard from Ammar a delightful
description of it, and as we have so often been disappointed under such
circumstances we said we would take all possible enjoyment out of the
pleasures of hope beforehand. But really this time we had everything we
expected, including a wide rocky river, enabling us to bathe, develop
photographs, and set up a laundry.
Fereghet was, in fact, a most charming spot. Here our tents were pitched
beneath wide-spreading tamarinds, and we could walk in shade for a
considerable distance under these gigantic old trees. Fereghet, moreover,
was the site of an ancient ruined town which interested us exceedingly:
walls, 8 to 10 feet thick, had been constructed out of very large unhewn
boulders externally, filled with rubble, to check the torrent, which in
the rainy season rushes down here carrying all before it to the sea.
These walls, showing much skill in keeping a straight line, are clearly
the work of an age long gone by, when weight-moving was better understood
than it is at present, and doubtless the ruins of Fereghet may be traced
back to the days when Sokotra was resorted to for its gums. The fine old
tamarind-trees had done much to destroy the colossal wall, only about 100
feet of which now remains, still about 5 feet high; but there are many
other traces of ruins and a small fort of later date. It is likely enough
that Fereghet was a great centre of the trade of the island, for
frankincense, myrrh, and dragon's blood grow copiously around, and the
position under the slopes of Haghier, and almost in the middle of the
island, was suitable for such a town.
We opened a tomb not very far from Fereghet with a great block of stone
over it, 6 feet long by 3 feet thick; but the ill-conditioned relatives
of the deceased had placed nothing therein save the corpse; and we were
annoyed not to find any trace of inscriptions near this ruined town,
which might have thrown some light on the subject. All I feel sure of is
that the Portuguese did not build this town, as it is commonly asserted.
In fact we did not see any building on the island which can definitely be
ascribed to that nation.
Below Fereghet the valley gets broader and runs straight down to the sea
at the south of the island, where the streams from Mount Haghier all lose
themselves in a vast plain of sand called Noget, which we could see from
the mountains up which we climbed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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