This is the widest point of the island of Sokotra, and it is really only
thirty-six miles between the ocean at Tamarida and the ocean at Noget,
but the intervention of Mount Haghier and its ramifications make it
appear a very long way indeed.
The island to the east and to the west of its great mountain very soon
loses its fantastic scenery and its ample supply of water. The most
remarkable peak we could see from Fereghet was Adouna. The topmost point
of this mountain is split. We saw this clearly afterwards, when we
continued our journey up the valley, but from Fereghet, I found it out by
seeing a small cloud passing through it. To look at the mountains you
would think they were made of black stone with a few patches of red
lichen, but really these patches of red are the natural rock showing
amongst the fine black lichen which covers the mountains.
The channels of the water in the river-bed are shown by this blackness,
and the water looks like an inky stream.
Beyond Fereghet we were near a river the water of which was very low. The
main bed of the water-channel was all black, and above this was a coat of
white over the blackened stones, and as the remaining pools were all
white, I suppose that some white tributary continues flowing later than
the black stream.
The few Bedouin who live round Fereghet were in constant contact with our
camp, as you will understand when you know that our tent was pitched
exactly on their high road--a little narrow path. They behaved most
kindly in going aside. The women used to bring us aloe plants just torn
up, and seemed much disappointed at finding that we did not find any use
for them.
We heard from them that there is only one leper on the island and he
lives alone in the hills.
Our sheltering tamarind-trees, wide-spreading and gnarled, abounded in
doves; some were small ones like ours, and some of the parrot kind, whose
cawing was far from sedative. We enjoyed wandering in the shade of the
fig-trees, wild and unprofitable, the date and other trees. Around us
stood the relics of a bygone race of men, who had ill-naturedly left us
no inscriptions on stone, and no clue to tell us who they were.
Mountains hemmed us in on every side, and any little wind was very
refreshing, for we were only about 400 feet above the sea-level, and
quite sheltered from our now only too-well-known north-east monsoon. On a
kind of promontory by a deep pool in the river is a building of stones
and mortar, later in style than the wall and equally inexplicable,
probably a fort.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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