It appeared, after much fruitless negotiation, that the sultan was
determined to cheat the Bedouin. He arrived very soon after breakfast,
_i.e._ before seven, and demanded 500 rupees for himself, which he
immediately lowered of his own accord to 400 rupees, and gave us to
understand danger would be averted if we paid this sum. He carried off
100 rupees for coffee and a bundle of turbans and other garments. No one
but Musaben was to know of the money, and the fat parcel he himself
stuffed into the clothes of his dirty confidant, explaining to us and
them that he should only show an aluminium box as his sole gift, and
walked off holding it ostentatiously between his finger and thumb. Later
we walked round the castle, and were let into the courtyard. The sultan
saw us from a window in his tower, and beckoned us up. We had to go
through gateways on all sides of the tower, so that they can quite
command the entrance. We went up a high winding stair to a room about 10
feet square, where we sat on the floor and had coffee with cloves and no
sugar, and a coarse kind of sweetmeat. His first question was, 'Where is
the gun?' I said, 'Where is Al Kara?' So he laughed merrily, and said,
'You shall not go to Al Kara till I have the gun.' So I told him he
should not have the gun till we had been. He then told my husband he must
pay 1,000 rupees and the gun first, and he would manage the Bedouin; but
my husband said he would pay afterwards, and not more than 400 rupees. So
this conversation went on, and we left. Musaben was surprised that we had
been admitted.
We spent our days taking long walks in the cultivated fields, stepping on
banks between the canals, or _abrs_. There were many trees, and acres of
dukhan grown for making oil, gilgil, and other crops; and the shade, the
birds, the greenery, and water made it a pleasant relief from the sandy
mounds. The workpeople are slaves of the subordinate race of Hagheri.
There are really very few Arabs. Watchmen or scarecrows, with long canes,
stand on high platforms scattered about. The old well has very-much-worn
stones round its mouth, and had once an extensive building over it. Corn
is ground in a mill made from the hollowed trunk of a tree, with a camel
going round and round. It was amusing to see the little children with
their arms held aloft bound up in leaves to their elbows, to keep their
hands nice, as they had been dyed with henna for the festival.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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