Jebel Gabeil is the acropolis of the ancient Kanfar, about 200 feet high
and a quarter of a mile long, with a double fort on the top, containing
an area of about 100 square yards. The outer wall is built of fine large
stones, and the interior has a beautiful foundation, evidently
Himyaritic, and commands an extensive view. The tomb of the saint whose
feast it was is surrounded with tombs, all in disrepair, but covered with
very pretty carved wood. The procession passed our camp both going and
coming, and was an interesting sight. Quite early I was begged to come
out and see crowds of women and girls, who had come to visit me with
their new clothes, some indigo-dyed and some of red ingrain. They wear
the same shape as in the Hadhramout, but do not cover their faces. They
have a good deal of jewellery, and paint their faces yellow. I did not
see any of the fantastic patterns I saw in the Hadhramout on the faces.
First came four men with lances, dancing to and fro, then the sultan on a
camel, dressed in red and purple and gold, and after him about thirty
soldiers. A large white and red flag followed. On his return the sultan
stopped and delivered a short address, the bystanders assenting by
shouting 'Nahm! Nahm!'
The sultan came constantly, always raising his demands.
One afternoon he came and said 'Where is the gun?'
'Under that bed; you cannot have it now.'
'I should like to see the cartridges,' said the sultan.
'They are packed up.'
My husband then did what might seem rude here but is all the fashion
there: he walked out of the tent and went off a little distance with
Matthaios and Musaben to have a consultation; and the sultan got up and
stood craning his neck and trying to listen, but I chattered and babbled
to him to prevent his doing so, and finding he could hear nothing he said
in a very cajoling sort of tone:
'Al Kara is such a very nice place! you would like to see it,' and asked
me just to let him see the gun and some more clothes, and when my husband
returned begged for more money; but he put on an air of great indignation
and impatience and said:
'When we say a thing once it is enough,' and when the sultan began again
he said 'Bas!' (Enough!) so loud that his majesty hastily departed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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