We dismounted, nearly a quarter of a mile off, and all our party advanced
hand-in-hand, fourteen besides ourselves and Matthaios, we being the only
ones who did not know the words in which to chant our response to the
welcoming shout. This they interrupted occasionally by the high gurgling
sound they are so fond of, constantly coming out of the rank, one or
other, and firing a gun and retiring. The blue-bearded Sheikh Seil
galloped up and down in front of us, twirling his spear. We stopped 150
yards from them, and after much more firing the spearmen began to parade
before us in a serpentine way, two and two, backwards and forwards,
zigzag, and round and round the gunners, gradually getting nearer and
nearer to us, and dragging the gunners after them, with a red flag, a
seyyid, and their sheikh, Mohommod-bin-Nasr, between them. When they got
quite close they welcomed us, and we said 'Peace' to them. They passed us
so many times that we could see and notice them well. Some were very
tall; one who was very lame led his tiny little boy. The lancers danced
very prettily, having a man a little way in front of them executing wild
capers and throwing up his spear and catching it, singing all the while
songs of welcome. We could not understand more than some allusions, which
assured us they were composed for the occasion. After many gyrations they
retired to their former place, and then a herald came forward and made a
solemn address of welcome.
Then our turn came, and we sent forth a line of men with Sultan Haidar
in it to sing and let off guns. When the two lines met they shook hands
and kissed, the sultans and seyyids being kissed on the forehead and the
upper part of the leg. When they returned to us all our party joined
hands to go to our camp, now ready, a good distance off, all keeping step
in a kind of stilted, prancing way, singing. The spearmen in front danced
with all manner of light and graceful antics, and we were nearly stifled
with the dust; and the din was so appalling that we arrived quite dazed
at our tents after this welcome, which had lasted fully an hour. We were
the first white people who had been at Mis'hal. I tore my camera from its
case to take a photograph before the people left us, and it did better
than I could have expected in such a crowd, with no sun and so much
whirling dust. The town consists of a low square dar and a collection of
brushwood arbours, so slight that there is no pretension of concealing
anything that goes on inside. We were very thankful for a large pot of
coffee and ginger, sent by a sultan, and a fat lamb. The princes ventured
to leave us in charge of Abdullah-bin-Abdurrahman, and abode in the
tower. Sultan Haidar went home from here.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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