The tableland of Mis'hal is approached by three akabas: (1) Sauda, to
2,000 feet; (2) Beva, to 2,500 feet; (3) Hadda, to 2,750 feet. The Nakai
tribe live here, and are on friendly terms with their neighbours the
Fadhli--a sufficiently rare circumstance in this country. The Nakai chief
can put four hundred men in the field to help the Fadhli. The Markashi
were at war with them; they live in the Goddam range, and had been giving
the sultan trouble lately.
The road to Shukra most frequented is the Tarik el Arkob; eastward goes
the road to the Hadhramout, over the plain. Northward is the mountainous
country of the Aodeli tribe, where they told us 'it is sometimes so cold
that the rain is hard and quite white, and the water like stone.' The
plain is ten or fifteen miles long, by about four or five miles at its
broadest. If irrigated it would yield enormously. The well is of great
depth, but the water very bad. My husband ascended a mountain about 3,000
feet high, but only 400 feet above the plain, with a most remarkable view
of the Aodeli mountains, about twenty miles away, towering up to a great
height--far higher than the Yafei range, which Mr. Tate gives as 7,000
feet: these are probably 10,000 feet. The range must run for thirty or
forty miles from east to west, with few breaks and no peaks. We were not
well the last day at Mis'hal.
The Aodeli women paint red lines under their eyes and down their noses
and round their foreheads with a kind of earth-dye which they call
_hisn_. Sometimes there is a round spot on the forehead and red triangles
on the cheeks. One woman had her face literally dyed scarlet all over.
She had a heavy necklace of beads and carried the sheep-skin coat, that
she could not wear in the hot plain, rolled up and laid on her head. It
is curious how dissatisfied dark people seem to be with the colour of
their skins, so often trying to lighten it; the fairness of the English
is in some places attributed to the soap they use.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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