The shore of the town is very unpleasant, reeking with smells, and at low
tide lined with all the refuse and offal of the place. At high tide
shoals of fish come in to feed on this refuse, and in their train follow
immense flocks of seagulls, which make the edge of the water quite white
as they fly along and dive after their prey. Here and there out of the
sand peep the barrels of some rusty old cannon, ghostly relics of the
Portuguese occupation.
In the middle of the beach is the sultan's palace, but it is immeasurably
inferior to the new residency of the British political agent, which
stands at the southern extremity of the town, just where it can get all
the breeze that is to be had through a gap in the rocks opening to the
south; here we were most hospitably entertained by Colonel Hayes Sadler
on our second sojourn. Even in this favoured position the heat in summer
is almost unendurable, making Maskat one of the least coveted posts that
the Indian Government has at its disposal. The cliffs immediately round
the town are of a shiny schist, almost impossible to walk upon, and
reflect the rays of the sun with great intensity.
On either side of the town stand two old Portuguese forts kept up and
manned by the sultan's soldiers; in them are still to be seen old rusty
pieces of ordnance, one of which bears a Portuguese inscription with the
date 1606, and the name and arms of Philip III. of Spain; also the small
Portuguese chapel in the fort is preserved and bears the date of 1588.
These are the principal legacies left to posterity by those intrepid
pioneers of civilisation in a spot which they occupied for nearly a
century and a half. These forts testify to having been of great size and
strength in former times, and show considerable architectural features,
and the traces of a luxuriant and opulent population.
With regard to the ancient history of Oman, there is little known. The
empire of the Himyarites, which filled Yemen and the Hadhramout valley
with interesting remains, does not appear to have extended its sway so
far eastward; no Sabaean remains have as yet been found in Oman, nor are
there any that I have heard of further east than the frankincense country
of Dhofar, over six hundred miles west of Maskat. Neither Ptolemy nor the
author of the 'Periplus' gives us any definite information about the
existence of a town in the harbour of Maskat, and consequently the first
reliable information we have to go upon is from the early Arabian
geographers.
From Torisi we learn that Sobar was the most ancient town of Oman; but
that in his day Maskat was flourishing, and that 'in old times the China
ships used to sail from there.'
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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