The interior of Maskat is particularly gloomy: the bazaars are narrow and
dirty, and roofed over with palm matting; they offer but little of
interest, and if you are fond of the Arabian sweetmeat called _halwa_, it
is just as well not to watch it being made there, for niggers' feet are
usually employed to stir it, and the knowledge of this is apt to spoil
the flavour. Most of the town is now in ruins. Fifty years ago the
population must have been nearly three times greater than it is now.
There is also wanting in the town the feature which makes most Moslem
towns picturesque, namely the minaret; the mosques of the Ibadhuyah sect
being squalid and uninteresting. At first it is difficult to distinguish
them from the courtyard of an ordinary house, but by degrees the eye gets
trained to identify a mosque by the tiny substitute for a minaret
attached to each, a sort of bell-shaped cone about four feet high, which
is placed above the corner of the enclosing wall. I have already
mentioned the Ibadhuyah's views with regard to the imams. I believe they
hold also certain heterodox opinions with regard to predestination and
free will, which detach them from other Moslem communities; at any rate
they are far more tolerant than other Arabian followers of the Prophet,
and permit strangers to enter their mosques at will. Tobacco is freely
used by them, and amongst the upper classes scepticism is rife. The
devout followers of Mohammed look upon them much as Roman Catholics look
on Protestants, and their position is similar in many respects.
As elsewhere in Arabia, coffee is largely consumed in Oman, and no
business is ever transacted without it; it is always served in large,
copper coffee-pots, of the quaint shape which they use in Bahrein. Some
of these coffee-pots are very large. An important sheikh, or the mollah
of a mosque, whose guests are many, will have coffee-pots two or three
feet in height, whereas those for private use are quite tiny, but the
bird-like form of the pot is always scrupulously preserved.
The bazaars of Oman do not offer much to the curio-hunter. He may
perchance find a few of the curved Omani daggers with handsome sheaths
adorned with filigree silver, to which is usually attached, by a leather
thong, a thorn extractor, an earpick, and a spike. The belting, too, with
which these daggers are attached to the body, is very pretty and quite a
specialty of the place; formerly many gold daggers were manufactured at
Maskat and sent to Zanzibar, but of late years the demand for these has
considerably diminished.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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