With the whole of our party we embarked on the steamer which took us to
Bahrein, or rather as close as it could approach; for, owing to the
shallowness of the sea, while still far from shore we were placed in a
baggala in which we sailed for about twenty minutes. Then when a smaller
boat had conveyed us as near to the dry land as possible, we were in
mid-ocean transferred, bag and baggage, to asses, those lovely white
asses of Bahrein with tails and manes dyed yellow with henna, and
grotesque patterns illuminating their flanks; we had no reins or
stirrups, and as the asses, though more intelligent than our own, will
not unfrequently show obstinacy in the water, the rider, firmly grasping
his pommel, reaches with thankfulness the slimy, oozy beach of Bahrein.
Manamah is the name of the town at which you land; it is the commercial
capital of the islands--just a streak of white houses and bamboo huts,
extending about a mile and a half along the shore. A few mosques with low
minarets may be seen, having stone steps up one side, by which the priest
ascends for the call to prayer. These mosques and the towers of the
richer pearl merchants show some decided architectural features, having
arches of the Saracenic order, with fretwork of plaster and quaint stucco
patterns.
On landing we were at once surrounded by a jabbering crowd of negro
slaves, and stately Arabs with long, flowing robes and twisted
camel-hair cords (akkal) around their heads.
Our home while in the town was one of the best of the battlemented
towers, and consisted of a room sixteen feet square, on a stone platform.
It had twenty-six windows with no glass in them, but pretty lattice of
plaster. Our wooden lock was highly decorated, and we had a wooden key to
close our door, which pleased us much. Even though we were close upon the
tropics we found our abode chilly enough after sunset; and our nights
were rendered hideous--firstly, by the barking of dogs; secondly, by
cocks which crowed at an inordinately early hour; and, thirdly, by pious
Mussulmans hard at work praying before the sun rose.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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