Numerous little baskets were brought in with immense quantities of gold
ornaments, some very heavy, but with few gems in them--absolutely none of
value. They consisted of coral, onyx, a few bad turquoises, crooked
pearls, and many false stones. Everything was of Indian work. Sheikha
came in in a silk dress with a tremendous, much-alloyed silver girdle,
and loaded with chains and bracelets of all sorts, clanking and clashing
as she came.
We had very good coffee with ginger and cloves in it, and at this time
there was a very great deal of religious conversation and argument, and
as they were exciting themselves I thought I would go, for I did not feel
very comfortable; but the chief lady said to me, in a very threatening
and dictatorial voice:
'La illaha il Allah! Mohammed resoul Allah.' I looked as much like an
idiot as I could, and pretended neither to notice nor understand, but I
was patted and shaken up by all that were near-enough neighbours to do
so, and desired to look at that lady.
Again she said 'La illaha il Allah' in the same tone, and I was told I
must repeat it. So she said the first part again in a firm tone, and I
cheerfully repeated after her, 'There is no god but God.'
Then she continued, 'Mohammed is his prophet.' I remained dumb. Then the
name of Issa (Jesus) went round, and I bowed my head.
The coffee woman then called out, 'Issa was a prophet before Mohammed.'
They then asked me if Issa was my prophet. I could only say that He is,
for my Arabic would not allow of a further profession of my faith.
I gladly departed and gave Sheikha afterwards two sovereigns for her
necklace.
They said they would show me their clothes, but they never did. I have
described the shape of these dresses, but I omitted to say that they are
gaily trimmed with a kind of ribbon about two inches wide, made of little
square bits of coloured silks and cottons sewn together. This is put
round the armholes, over the shoulder, and down to the hem of the garment
over the seam, where a curious gusset or gore runs from the front part
to the corner of the train. The dress is trimmed round the neck, which is
cut square and rather low, and generally hangs off one shoulder, and,
across the breast it is much embroidered, beads and spangles being
sometimes introduced. These women seem to live in a perpetual noise: they
gurgled loudly when we arrived, and we could always hear them playing the
tambourine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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