Soyer's Culinary Campaign: Being Historical Reminiscences of the Late War.: With The Plain Art of Cookery for Military and Civil InstitutionsSoyer, Alexis
History
Soyer's Culinary Campaign: Being Historical Reminiscences of the Late War.: With The Plain Art of Cookery for Military and Civil Institutions
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking for military personnel; Crimean War, 1853-1856
The Duke of Newcastle was not the first nobleman of his high rank who
had honoured me with that degree of favour; but the others had a certain
interest in so doing. For instance, while at the Reform Club, a number
of epicures used to pay me visits, shake me heartily by the hand, and
most cordially inquire about my health. These had, I always considered,
a twofold object in view: first, to induce me to give them the best of
dinners; secondly, to ascertain whether I was feverish or in good
health. In the former case they would postpone their dinner-party for a
few days, or else try to persuade me to follow the plan of the
celebrated Marquis de Coucy, one of the greatest French epicures of the
nineteenth century, who never engaged a cook without having a written
agreement, giving him power to compel him to take medicine a couple of
days before he gave any of his grand dinners, which never exceeded
twelve in the Paris season. Extra pay was allowed for this pleasant
concession on the part of the _chef de cuisine_, who no doubt turned the
funds to _tisane_--most probably, _tisane de champagne_.
In the present case, his Grace had no such object in view, as I had
nothing to offer him but soldiers’ hospital rations, diets, &c.,
composed of beef-tea, mutton-broth, rice-puddings, &c., and my new
biscuit-bread, which had been made three months, having the date of
baking stamped upon it. I drew the Duke’s attention to this, and then
broke a little into some mutton-broth; and in five minutes it had all
the appearance of a piece of fresh bread soaked in broth. In its dry
state, it was much more agreeable to eat than the usual biscuit. His
Grace was highly pleased with it, and advised me to recommend its
adoption to the War-office upon my return to London.
The kitchen was by this time full of officers and medical men, come to
pay their respects to the Duke, forming a numerous escort as he went
round the hospital. I gave a short account of my proceedings since my
arrival at Scutari, where I had closed all the kitchens but this one,
minutely explaining all its details, as well as the plan I had adopted
to keep it so clean and so cool; at which the Duke was much struck.
Cooking was done daily in it for more than one thousand men, the
weather being then intensely hot. After honouring me with most
flattering compliments, the Duke and party retired. Lord William kindly
informed me that the Duke would visit the other hospitals in a day or
two, and that he would give me due notice of his visit. Accordingly, two
days afterwards, we showed the Duke over the General, Hyder Pacha, and
the Palace Hospitals, with the arrangements of which he expressed
himself satisfied.
A few days after, the Duke of Newcastle left for the Crimea, but, prior
to his departure, honoured me with the following letter:--
MESSERIE’S HOTEL, _23rd July, 1855_.
DEAR M. SOYER,--Accept my best thanks for the copy of your book.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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