Soyer's Culinary Campaign: Being Historical Reminiscences of the Late War.: With The Plain Art of Cookery for Military and Civil Institutions — John Shaqi
Soyer's Culinary Campaign: Being Historical Reminiscences of the Late War.: With The Plain Art of Cookery for Military and Civil InstitutionsSoyer, Alexis
History
Soyer's Culinary Campaign: Being Historical Reminiscences of the Late War.: With The Plain Art of Cookery for Military and Civil Institutions
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking for military personnel; Crimean War, 1853-1856
“I am well aware of that fact,” I answered, “and that this semi-soup and
stew ought, by right, to be made at a seaport; nevertheless, the finest
seaport I have ever seen in England, and I might say in the world, for
fish, is London; therefore, my dear sir, give me the receipt, and I
shall, no doubt, fish out the fish from a good quarter.”
ORIGINAL RECEIPT FOR THE BOUILLABAISSE A LA MARSEILLAISE.
Before entering upon details, I will specify the different kinds of
fish most applicable. They are of two classes: one acting as a
mucilaginous agent, the other merely imparting the flavour; also an
essential point. The first class comprises--whitings, loups or
lupins, red mullets, soles, and turbots. The second--gurnets,
boudroies or boudreuils, lobsters or cray-fish, sea toads or
rascasses, galinettes, limbers, lazagnes or lucrèces. These latter
are plentiful in the Mediterranean seas.
As a general rule, this ragoût should be cooked in a stewpan,
rather broad than deep, and of thin metal, in order to the
ebullition proceeding quickly. Those in tin or thin iron are the
most appropriate, as the concoction must be done in a few minutes,
and with such rapidity that the liquor must be reduced to the
necessary point by the time the fish is cooked. It should also be
sent to table and eaten at once, as the shortest delay will cause
the quality to deteriorate. The principal fish must be cut in
pieces or slices sufficiently sized to serve each guest; the others
being merely accessories.
RECEIPT.--Slice up two large onions, place them in a stewpan as
before mentioned, wide but not deep, and of thin metal, add a few
spoonfuls of olive oil, and fry the onions of a pale brown colour.
Next, place the pieces of fish in the pan, cover them with warm
water, but no more than the depth of the contents; add salt, “in
moderation,” half a bay leaf, the flesh of half a lemon, without
pips or rind, two tomatoes cut in dice, after extracting the seeds,
a small tumbler of light white wine, a few peppercorns, and four
cloves of garlic. Set on a fierce stove and boil for twelve
minutes; by this time the liquor should be reduced to a third of
its original quantity. Add a small portion of saffron, a
table-spoonful of chopped parsley, allow it to boil a few seconds
longer, taste, and correct the seasoning, if required, and remove
from the fire.
During this process you should have prepared two dozen of slices of
light French bread or penny-roll, about half an inch in thickness,
which place in a tureen or dish, pour over them some of the liquor
from the ragoût, let it soak a minute or so, and again pour over in
order to soak the top as well as the bottom of the layers of bread.
Dish up separately the best pieces of fish with the remaining
liquor, and serve.
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