Spain in 1830, vol. 1Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 1
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
The palace of St. Ildefonso, or as it is more commonly called in Spain,
La Granja, was built by Philip V., who undoubtedly made a better choice
than his predecessor, the founder of the Escurial; for if a cool breeze
is any where to be found in Spain during the heat of summer, it is at
St. Ildefonso that it must be sought. It is placed in a spot where the
mountains fall back, leaving a recess sheltered from the hot air of the
south, and from much of its sun; but exposed to whatever breeze may be
wafted from the north. The immediate acclivity towards the south, is
occupied by the garden, which, although somewhat formal in the immediate
neighbourhood of the palace, is full of shade and coolness. Almost every
one has heard of the waters of La Granja; these were politely offered to
be displayed for my amusement; but artificial water-works have no great
charms for me; and besides, when we see the fountains, it is not
difficult to fancy the play of the waters. I have no doubt, however,
that the effect is striking; and during the heats of summer, so many
jets must produce an agreeable influence upon the surrounding
atmosphere. The fountains and falls are innumerable; one of them, Fame
seated on Pegasus, raises a jet to the height of one hundred and
thirty-two feet; and in another spot, called the Plazuela de las ocho
Calles, eight fountains unite, forming a beautiful and chaste temple of
the Ionic order, adorned by columns of white marble. The expense of
constructing the garden of La Granja has been enormous; it has generally
been computed to amount to upwards of seven millions sterling.
The principal front of the palace faces the garden; it is one hundred
and eighty yards long, and in every respect palace-like; but it struck
me as being too large, too formal, and too fine, to be in perfect
keeping with the surrounding scenery; the wild defiles of the Sierra
Guadarrama required a different kind of palace. The interior is in every
thing regal; and is adorned by some choice works of the first masters;
though many which formerly belonged to this palace have been removed to
the Madrid museum.
In speaking of St. Ildefonso, let me not omit to mention the renowned
manufactory of mirrors; which are, at all events, the largest, if not
the finest in the world. The mould in which the largest are made, is
thirteen feet and a half one way, seven feet nine inches the other, and
six inches deep. Some of the mirrors made at St. Ildefonso, have found
their way into most of the royal palaces of Europe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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