Spain in 1830, vol. 1Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 1
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
I supped luxuriously upon venison, and accepted a bed in the palace; but
before retiring to it, I had the pleasure of partaking of a bottle of
_Val de Peñas_ from the king’s cellar. This is a wine of which no idea
can be formed, judging of it by the samples commonly found either in the
public or private houses of Madrid. Like many other of the Spanish
wines, it requires age to mellow it; and it has besides most commonly
acquired, less or more, a peculiar flavour from the skins in which it
is brought from La Mancha. The king’s wine is no doubt carried in some
other fashion.
Segovia is only two leagues from La Granja, and I had intended to have
been there to an early breakfast; but whether it be that one sleeps
sounder in a palace than elsewhere, or that Val de Peñas is of a
soporific quality, it is certain, that in place of awaking as usual
before day-break, half the mountain was bathed in sunbeams when I looked
out of my window. I found a good breakfast of coffee and its adjuncts (a
rare luxury in Spain) waiting me below; and I also found that a horse
and a servant were in readiness to facilitate my transport to Segovia. I
would willingly have dispensed with this kindness; for although I have
no objection to a horse, guides and attendants of every kind are my
abhorrence; but there was no escape,--and I left La Granja mounted and
escorted.
The road betwixt La Granja and Segovia, is particularly pleasing: it
lies along the ridges of the Sierra,--ascending and descending, and
catching every moment charming views both of mountain scenery, and of a
more cultivated and living landscape. The morning was beautiful, even
for Spain, where all the mornings are beautiful; and I went no faster on
my royal charger than if I had been on foot,--often pausing to admire
the surrounding prospects: these did not rise into the sublime, nor
could they be classed with the beautiful or the romantic; but they were
varied and agreeable--soothing and exhilarating by turns: deep silent
valleys, running up into the mountains, spotted with pine, and covered
with the enamel of beauteous heaths; streams, glancing like liquid
silver, or spreading over little hollows, gleaming like mirrors set in a
rugged frame; smooth knolls, grown over with aromatic plants and
flowering shrubs; and herds of gentle deer, raising their heads,
advancing at a short run, and then stopping to gaze at me as I passed
by. These deer, however, so beautiful to look at, are a scourge to this
part of the country, which is in most parts susceptible of cultivation;
and which, but for the license allowed these favourite animals, might
yield an abundant produce.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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