Spain in 1830, vol. 1Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
History
Spain in 1830, vol. 1
Inglis, Henry D. (Henry David)
Spain -- Description and travel
bubble from sandy deserts; or clothe with soil, the rocky Sierras that
half cover the Peninsula.
The wealth of the cathedral of Toledo had a narrow escape from the
rapacity of the French: upon their approach, the archbishop--not the
present, but the last archbishop--carried away the whole of the portable
articles to Cadiz, and thus saved them: the heavier articles remained in
their places; and the French when they took possession of Toledo, asked
one fourth part of their value; but a much less sum was offered, and
accepted, viz. 90 arrobas, or 2250 lbs. of silver--a mere trifle,
scarcely equalling the value of one of the precious stones.
But the preciocidades, and marbles, and porphyries, and paintings, are
not, in my eyes, the most interesting features of the cathedral of
Toledo: its immensity, its grandeur, are its glories. The lofty and
majestic aisles--the massive and far-stretching columns of a temple like
this, seem almost to shadow forth the imperishable nature of the
religion whose sanctuary they adorn and uphold. The longer we
contemplate the vastness and majesty around, the mind is more and more
filled with awe, and lifted from the insignificance of life to a sense
of the greatness and solemn grandeur of eternity; we are filled with
enthusiasm and admiration,--enthusiasm the more lofty, because it is
mingled with religion; and admiration the more profound, since it is
mixed with astonishment, that so frail a creature as man should be able
to perpetuate his memory for ever. While I remained in Toledo, I spent a
part of every day in the cathedral; and every evening, about sunset, I
strolled through the aisles. These visits will not soon be forgotten,
for it is but rarely that life gathers such subjects of remembrance. The
last evening I remained in Toledo, I walked into the cathedral sometime
after sunset,--it was the latest visit I had made to it: the interior
was all wrapped in deep dusk;--the lofty aisles stretched darkly beyond,
only shewn by a solitary lamp burning before the shrine of some inferior
saint,--its ineffectual light dimly falling athwart the gloom; the
painted windows had ceased to throw their gorgeous hues within,--but a
speckled and faintly-coloured gleam fell upon the upper part of the
columns. Two candles burnt before the Altar Major; and in the distance,
at the farthest extremity of the church, a bright red blaze flashed
across the aisle, and between the massive pillars,--throwing their broad
shadows across the marble-chequered floor of the church: this was the
chapel of the miraculous image, lighted up with an infinity of
tapers,--and the only sound to be heard, save my own footstep, was the
distant hum of prayer from the many devotees prostrated before her
shrine. Here and there, as I walked through the aisles, I saw a solitary
kneeler at the altar of a favourite saint; and at some of the remotest
and obscurest spots, a cloaked caballero was waiting for good or for
evil.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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